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{\an8}PUNTA ARENAS
REPUBLIC OF CHILE
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{\an8}This might sound a bit strange now, but...
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if you ever decide
to travel to Antarctica,
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you’ll find yourself asking,
“Where do I begin?”
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Cruises to Antarctica
depart from New Zealand
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as well as from Tasmania, Australia.
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The second option is
Cape Town, South Africa.
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The third, more traditional option
is South America,
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either Ushuaia, Argentina,
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or Chile, Punta Arenas.
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This is where we are now.
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The 30th Ukrainian Antarctic
Expedition will set off from here
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and head to the Akademik Vernadsky
Research Station for a whole year.
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We're joining this expedition.
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Not for the whole year,
but for a little less.
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At around 5 p.m., I reached the cabin
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that was to be my home
for the next three weeks.
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Or maybe longer than three weeks.
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I am not sure yet.
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And this is the Ukrainian icebreaker
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that will take us to Antarctica.
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This ship is called Noosfera.
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"Noosfera" is not something fictional,
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the name comes from Volodymyr Vernadsky,
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a Ukrainian scientist,
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whose name our Antarctic station bears.
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The Noosfera is primarily
a scientific research vessel.
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There are plenty of devices here
for studying the ocean.
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This ship is operated by the National
Antarctic Scientific Center of Ukraine.
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Yes, we have such an institution.
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Being so far from home,
at the very edge of South America,
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it was very unusual to see
the Ukrainian flag,
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the blue-and-yellow symbols,
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and the inscription "Noosfera Odesa."
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Odesa is the port of registry,
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although now the ship
is based in Cape Town.
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That was my first impression.
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And later, when you walk along the deck,
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you start noticing a lot of signs
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written in a language
that is clearly not Ukrainian.
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Phrases like “mind your head”
and these ladder instructions
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eventually make you realize
that this ship was not built in Ukraine.
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This vessel was called
the RRS James Clark Ross.
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If you look closely,
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you can still see the old letters
on the ship's hull.
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They’re still there.
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A QUICK BIT OF HISTORY
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This ship was named after
a famous British polar explorer,
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Sir James Clark Ross.
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The vessel was launched by Her Majesty
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Queen Elizabeth II in 1990.
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In 2021, after 30 years of service
for the British Antarctic Survey,
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the royal icebreaker was put up for sale.
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That same year, Ukraine bought it.
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Now it is the flagship
of the National Research Fleet.
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A Ukrainian vessel
with a very experienced Ukrainian captain,
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Pavlo Panasiuk,
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a Ukrainian crew, but a British character.
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I was honestly impressed by
how well-made and comfortable it is.
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The British have been building
ships for hundreds of years.
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But what’s also important is,
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we bought it for a very good price.
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The James Clark Ross was
put up for sale for $12,000,000.
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Ukraine bought it for just five million.
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Thanks again to Great Britain
and our diplomats for that.
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If this icebreaker were to be
torn apart for scrap metal,
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its value would be
three to four million dollars.
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We bought it for five.
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Just six months later,
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the ship went on
its first voyage to Antarctica
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under the Ukrainian flag.
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Things could've turned out differently,
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because the icebreaker
left the port of Odesa
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on January 28, 2022.
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That is, less than a month
before the full-scale invasion.
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And if that hadn't happened,
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I think the Noosfera
would have shared the fate of Mriya.
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However, the adventures
of the Ukrainian ship didn’t end there.
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When the Noosfera was passing
through the Dardanelles Strait,
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it encountered Russian landing ships.
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The captain, Pavlo Panasiuk,
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called the head of the National Antarctic
Scientific Center, Yevhen Dykyi.
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He said, “I didn’t think
anything could happen,
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but now we’ve met these
Russian landing ships."
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They were moving like
they were in military mode,
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maintaining radio silence.
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It didn’t look like training at all.
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That’s how Noosfera
narrowly missed the war.
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Right now, the final preparations
are underway on the ship.
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We are still waiting
for the polar researchers.
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And tomorrow morning
we depart for Antarctica.
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EVENING
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Good evening.
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Place your belongings by the wall
and board the ship.
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Around 11 p.m.,
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the polar explorers of the 30th
Ukrainian Antarctic Expedition,
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who will stay at Vernadsky Station
for the winter, came aboard.
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In total, that’s 13 people.
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Eight scientists, a doctor,
a cook, a sysadmin,
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a systems mechanic,
and a diesel electrician.
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Everyone's here now.
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MORNING
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DAY 1
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So, it's 8 a.m., March 11, 2025.
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The Noosfera is raising
the gangway and casting off.
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We are heading out to sea.
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{\an8}THE STRAIT OF MAGELLAN
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So, we are now in the Strait of Magellan.
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This is the strait between
the Tierra del Fuego archipelago,
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"Fireland" in English,
and the mainland of South America.
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It’s quite a tricky place for navigation,
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because there are many
underwater rocks, storms,
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and quite strong gusts of wind.
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So this route must be navigated
with the help of a harbor pilot,
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a local who knows the area
and can guide the way.
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It's mandatory.
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The waves are already
starting to rise a little,
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but this is just the beginning.
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It will get much worse.
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So, what am I getting at?
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Let's take a closer look at the Noosfera
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while it's still not rocking too much.
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{\an8}MODERN POP MUSIC PLAYING
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We can finally launch the drone
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and, from above, grasp the scale
of this nearly 100-meter, six-deck vessel.
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This vessel is as tall
as a 10-story building.
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The Noosfera is not an ordinary liner
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but an ice-class vessel
with a reinforced hull
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for navigating Antarctic conditions.
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The bow has a strong ice belt,
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with which the icebreaker,
at very low speed,
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can cut through young ice
up to one meter thick.
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The rudder and propeller
are protected by an ice cutter,
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and the hull is made of special steel
designed to withstand low temperatures.
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Behind this rugged exterior
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is a surprisingly comfortable ship
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that can carry 50 passengers
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and has everything needed to create hygge
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even in harsh polar conditions.
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Here you have a medical unit,
laundry room,
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a cozy crew lounge, and a library
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that has some preserved gems
of British literature,
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like Mike Oldfield’s autobiography,
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the novel Roses are Red,
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and also a detailed guide to using
the MS-DOS operating system.
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The ship is over 30 years old.
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Look how cute this is.
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There’s still a sticker from
the James Clark Ross library
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asking people to return any books
before leaving the vessel.
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The British...
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The Ukrainian period on the ship
is marked by heavy use of the walls,
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with photos of Noosfera, polar explorers,
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and, of course, penguins.
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There are the mostly penguins here.
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I also want to show you the engine room,
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because in terms of its engine,
the Noosfera is built quite unusually.
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Right now,
we are entering the compartment
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where the ship’s propeller rotates.
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Which is this huge metal pipe here.
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And listen. It’s so quiet here.
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This is the real sound.
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Speaking in automotive terminology,
the Noosfera is a hybrid.
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Two diesel engines
feed a massive generator,
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which provides the current
to move the vessel.
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After evacuation drills
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and courses on zipping yourself
into an immersion suit,
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which is not that easy,
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we left the Strait of Magellan,
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and only the pilot had to be dropped off.
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This happens in a very interesting way.
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A boat comes right up
to the Noosfera, without slowing down,
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and a passenger jumps over
while the ship is moving.
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And that’s it.
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People cheer, wave, and are like,
“It worked. Unbelievable!”
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And the boat departs.
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I’ve only seen something like this
in Michael Bay movies.
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They docked so skillfully,
picked up people, and so quickly departed.
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At the end of the first day,
we were rewarded with sun,
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waves, and an increasingly strong wind
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that created absolutely
incredible scenes at sea.
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Honestly, I was lost in thought
and couldn’t move,
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because it was so beautiful.
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It felt like CGI, computer graphics.
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Yes, these days I probably should say
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that everything you see is
not ChatGPT, not Midjourney...
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In short, it’s not AI.
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It’s all nature.
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DAY 2
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On the second day, for me, as a passenger,
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the hardest part of the journey began.
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Around 10 a.m. on March 12,
we entered the Drake Passage.
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THE DRAKE PASSAGE
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Drake Passage is about 800 km of open sea
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between South America and Antarctica.
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It is one of the most dangerous places
for sailing in the world.
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Known for its unpredictable weather,
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winds, strong currents,
and waves of up to 10, 15 meters high.
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The Drake Passage is considered
the stormiest place on the planet.
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Meaning there’s no scenario
where there’s no storm.
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The only question is,
is it weak, or is it strong?
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Today, most likely,
we are at least a bit lucky.
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It's not rocking too much.
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However, the day has only just begun.
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Two hours later, I was already
lying in deep Savasana,
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because I was hit with seasickness.
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To be honest, it doesn't feel very good.
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Seasickness is essentially a bug
in the brain's functioning.
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It happens because the eyes see one thing,
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but the body feels
something completely different.
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When I walk down this corridor,
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00:15:21,360 --> 00:15:23,360
the brain perceives this image as static,
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but I’m being rocked from side to side.
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00:15:26,440 --> 00:15:29,960
As a result, a kind of
sensory system conflict arises.
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00:15:30,040 --> 00:15:34,040
Seeing these movements
with your eyes isn’t that easy.
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I mean, when you turn on the tap,
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just like now,
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you can see the water.
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But when you walk around
the lounge, it’s not that obvious.
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From the porthole, the sea
doesn’t feel stormy at all,
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but it becomes clearer
when you go up to the captain's bridge
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and see the vessel’s vertical
movements with your eyes.
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As you can see now...
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Down, up, down, up...
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00:16:02,920 --> 00:16:04,600
Well, you get the idea.
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00:16:07,640 --> 00:16:10,320
This happens even in calm weather,
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00:16:10,400 --> 00:16:12,800
when the sun is shining, the sky is clear,
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and you don’t see
any super high waves.
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00:16:15,880 --> 00:16:18,200
But still, if you’re in the strait,
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you’re constantly riding
these roller coasters.
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And it feels pretty awful.
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I hope green suits me.
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Everything is fine
as long as you're lying down.
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00:16:31,800 --> 00:16:33,200
But when you get up...
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Before entering the Drake Passage,
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everything should be fixed and fastened,
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because everything
immediately starts flying.
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00:16:48,360 --> 00:16:51,920
The sailors even use
their own terminology,
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"Drake Lake" when the passage is calm,
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and "Drake Shake"
when there are turbulent waters.
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We’ve had some "shake" moments,
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00:16:59,560 --> 00:17:01,560
but I won’t show them to you,
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because when it happened,
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I was just lying in my cabin
in a brick-like position.
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00:17:07,280 --> 00:17:09,560
The only thing that made me get up
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was simply the need to go to the restroom.
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That’s it.
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00:17:14,320 --> 00:17:16,440
There is definitely a way out of this.
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00:17:20,560 --> 00:17:23,040
But personally,
the pills just made me sleepy,
251
00:17:23,120 --> 00:17:24,640
which, overall, isn’t bad either,
252
00:17:24,720 --> 00:17:27,640
but some people still need
to work in these conditions.
253
00:17:27,720 --> 00:17:28,760
For example, cooks.
254
00:17:28,840 --> 00:17:31,240
And how do they do it? I have no idea.
255
00:17:31,320 --> 00:17:34,600
In short, Drake is quite
an unpleasant experience
256
00:17:34,680 --> 00:17:36,720
that you just have to get through.
257
00:17:37,320 --> 00:17:40,320
After all, it’s the price you pay
to reach Antarctica.
258
00:17:45,360 --> 00:17:49,142
DAY 4
259
00:17:57,040 --> 00:18:00,040
After two days of constant rocking
and seasickness,
260
00:18:00,120 --> 00:18:03,320
we exited the Drake Passage
and entered the Southern Ocean.
261
00:18:03,400 --> 00:18:04,942
THE SOUTHERN OCEAN
262
00:18:07,720 --> 00:18:10,360
Maybe this is the first time
some of you are hearing this toponym,
263
00:18:10,440 --> 00:18:14,040
because we are used to the idea
that there are only four oceans.
264
00:18:14,115 --> 00:18:17,075
But since 2000,
the International Geographic Organization
265
00:18:17,160 --> 00:18:18,720
has recognized a fifth ocean,
266
00:18:18,800 --> 00:18:22,160
which lies beyond
a latitude of 60 degrees south.
267
00:18:23,000 --> 00:18:25,200
It’s this ocean that surrounds Antarctica.
268
00:18:28,120 --> 00:18:29,640
Besides the harsh climate,
269
00:18:29,720 --> 00:18:32,320
the Southern Ocean has one
very distinctive feature
270
00:18:32,400 --> 00:18:34,880
that makes it easily recognizable.
271
00:18:45,600 --> 00:18:49,600
This ocean is the main source
of icebergs on the planet.
272
00:19:19,880 --> 00:19:21,480
Under the influence of wind and waves,
273
00:19:21,560 --> 00:19:24,520
fairly large chunks
can break off an iceberg.
274
00:19:24,600 --> 00:19:25,880
This is called calving,
275
00:19:25,960 --> 00:19:29,960
and we were very lucky
to witness this spectacular process.
276
00:19:52,520 --> 00:19:54,120
And on the evening of the fourth day,
277
00:19:54,200 --> 00:19:56,320
I finally saw Antarctica.
278
00:20:49,000 --> 00:20:53,240
Let's clarify one important point
before we continue.
279
00:20:53,320 --> 00:20:54,960
If you happen to have any sailor friends,
280
00:20:55,040 --> 00:20:58,680
you know that you should
never say that a ship “sails.”
281
00:20:58,760 --> 00:21:00,800
Because it is not sailing, it is moving.
282
00:21:00,880 --> 00:21:03,040
Sailors get offended
if you say it the other way.
283
00:21:03,120 --> 00:21:04,920
Polar explorers have the same problem
284
00:21:05,000 --> 00:21:08,240
when someone confuses
the Arctic and the Antarctic.
285
00:21:08,320 --> 00:21:11,880
In 2021, I was 1000 kilometers
from the North Pole,
286
00:21:11,960 --> 00:21:13,360
on the Spitsbergen archipelago.
287
00:21:13,440 --> 00:21:17,640
That’s the Arctic,
and it’s very different from Antarctica.
288
00:21:17,720 --> 00:21:20,960
In general, they can be confused
because both are cold,
289
00:21:21,040 --> 00:21:24,000
both have polar days,
polar nights, and the aurora.
290
00:21:24,080 --> 00:21:28,520
But the Arctic is mostly ocean and ice.
291
00:21:29,000 --> 00:21:32,680
Antarctica,
which is in the Antarctic region,
292
00:21:33,160 --> 00:21:36,440
it's a separate landmass,
a part of the Earth’s surface.
293
00:21:37,560 --> 00:21:39,520
And this continent is actually huge.
294
00:21:39,600 --> 00:21:41,880
Its area is larger than Australia.
295
00:21:43,320 --> 00:21:44,400
One more thing.
296
00:21:45,080 --> 00:21:46,400
Polar bears are in the Arctic.
297
00:21:46,480 --> 00:21:49,200
There are no polar bears in Antarctica.
298
00:21:49,280 --> 00:21:50,360
There are penguins here.
299
00:21:53,320 --> 00:21:57,840
NIGHT
300
00:21:57,920 --> 00:22:01,320
As night falls, the danger level
for the Noosfera rises.
301
00:22:03,760 --> 00:22:06,160
The lights are turned off
on the ship's bridge.
302
00:22:06,240 --> 00:22:07,400
and the crew carries out
303
00:22:07,480 --> 00:22:09,760
a very important task
in complete darkness.
304
00:22:10,960 --> 00:22:13,200
Tracking icebergs.
305
00:22:29,800 --> 00:22:34,440
Each iceberg is roughly like
a concrete slab in terms of density.
306
00:22:43,800 --> 00:22:47,582
DAY 5
307
00:22:59,440 --> 00:23:00,720
By the fifth day of the journey,
308
00:23:00,800 --> 00:23:03,000
Antarctica felt especially close.
309
00:23:03,920 --> 00:23:05,120
Yes, it’s March now,
310
00:23:05,200 --> 00:23:06,880
but we’re on the other part of the globe.
311
00:23:06,960 --> 00:23:09,400
This means that autumn
has already begun in the region
312
00:23:19,972 --> 00:23:24,960
{\an8}WIENCKE ISLAND
313
00:23:25,040 --> 00:23:27,160
However, when the snow stopped,
314
00:23:27,240 --> 00:23:29,280
the views were simply magnificent.
315
00:23:31,000 --> 00:23:35,982
{\an8}THE BISMARCK STRAIT
316
00:23:42,000 --> 00:23:44,320
What you’re seeing now is the Antarctic,
317
00:23:44,400 --> 00:23:47,400
that is, the islands that are located
not far from the continent.
318
00:23:49,680 --> 00:23:54,720
It’s clear to see
where the icebergs come from.
319
00:23:58,320 --> 00:23:59,480
By the way, about icebergs...
320
00:23:59,560 --> 00:24:01,000
I understand that these ice blocks
321
00:24:01,080 --> 00:24:04,600
don’t look as spectacular
on screen as in real life.
322
00:24:04,680 --> 00:24:06,200
It's particularly hard to grasp
323
00:24:06,280 --> 00:24:09,240
the scale of each iceberg on video.
324
00:24:11,520 --> 00:24:14,280
For example,
if this bird hadn’t appeared here,
325
00:24:14,360 --> 00:24:15,520
you probably wouldn’t realize
326
00:24:15,600 --> 00:24:19,520
that this ice block is actually
the size of a multi-story building.
327
00:24:27,680 --> 00:24:29,200
But despite all this,
328
00:24:29,280 --> 00:24:31,160
there will be many icebergs in this movie.
329
00:24:31,760 --> 00:24:33,640
During my entire stay in Antarctica,
330
00:24:33,720 --> 00:24:35,520
I filmed them like a maniac,
331
00:24:35,600 --> 00:24:37,480
and now I have a small collection.
332
00:24:38,400 --> 00:24:40,640
And this is the highlight of it.
333
00:24:41,520 --> 00:24:44,640
I’m talking about
this quite rare striped iceberg.
334
00:24:44,720 --> 00:24:47,320
It looks as if it was modeled
in a 3D program.
335
00:24:48,640 --> 00:24:50,320
This effect comes from the fact
336
00:24:50,400 --> 00:24:52,920
that the ice absorbed sediment
and dust each year,
337
00:24:53,000 --> 00:24:55,120
forming a multi-layered structure,
338
00:24:55,200 --> 00:24:57,120
which actually serves
339
00:24:57,200 --> 00:24:59,800
as a very visual biography
of this iceberg.
340
00:25:05,480 --> 00:25:09,440
Icebergs are like Airbnb
for local wildlife.
341
00:25:09,520 --> 00:25:13,320
This is actually how I first met
subantarctic penguins,
342
00:25:13,400 --> 00:25:16,920
who ran away from our icebreaker
as fast as they could.
343
00:25:29,880 --> 00:25:32,560
They’re so adorable!
344
00:25:41,280 --> 00:25:44,080
As the ship approaches
the final point of our route,
345
00:25:44,160 --> 00:25:45,960
we meet more and more icebergs.
346
00:25:46,040 --> 00:25:48,080
This makes navigation much more difficult.
347
00:25:48,840 --> 00:25:51,160
The risk of collision with them
is quite real.
348
00:25:51,240 --> 00:25:56,040
In 2007, a cruise ship in this area
hit an iceberg and sank.
349
00:25:56,600 --> 00:25:57,800
Fortunately, no one died.
350
00:25:57,880 --> 00:26:00,160
This part of the route,
like the Drake Passage,
351
00:26:00,240 --> 00:26:01,480
is quite dangerous.
352
00:26:01,560 --> 00:26:04,960
It requires maximum attention
and caution from the crew.
353
00:26:05,040 --> 00:26:08,320
The Noosfera is forced to go
very slowly, actively maneuvering.
354
00:26:08,400 --> 00:26:11,800
It literally squeezes between
ice blocks of various sizes.
355
00:26:12,440 --> 00:26:16,000
All this is complicated
by snowfall and poor visibility.
356
00:26:18,760 --> 00:26:23,280
{\an8}Around 2 p.m. on March 15, 2025,
357
00:26:23,360 --> 00:26:26,200
{\an8}we finally reached the Penola Strait.
358
00:26:26,280 --> 00:26:28,600
{\an8}The ship will stay here for the next week.
359
00:26:33,640 --> 00:26:35,320
Four and a half days at sea
360
00:26:35,400 --> 00:26:39,320
and we are finally almost there. Almost.
361
00:26:39,880 --> 00:26:42,800
This is the final point
of the route for the Noosfera,
362
00:26:42,880 --> 00:26:44,800
but we'll keep moving.
363
00:26:45,880 --> 00:26:48,800
Let’s look at everything from the air
to understand why this is happening.
364
00:26:50,600 --> 00:26:53,320
This red dot on the horizon
is our icebreaker,
365
00:26:53,400 --> 00:26:56,080
and you can see the station
in the foreground.
366
00:26:56,160 --> 00:27:00,600
There is no special pier
for large ships at Vernadsky Station.
367
00:27:00,680 --> 00:27:03,760
The strait through which you can reach it
368
00:27:03,840 --> 00:27:06,320
is narrow and often
completely blocked by icebergs.
369
00:27:06,400 --> 00:27:09,080
You can end up here
and stay for a long time.
370
00:27:09,160 --> 00:27:11,640
The only connection between
the Noosfera and the station
371
00:27:11,720 --> 00:27:13,720
is small Zodiac boats.
372
00:27:14,240 --> 00:27:15,320
For the next week,
373
00:27:15,400 --> 00:27:18,080
these boats are both
our Bolt and Bolt Food.
374
00:27:18,160 --> 00:27:21,880
The first polar explorers
from Vernadsky are arriving on them.
375
00:27:21,960 --> 00:27:24,040
In a few days, they will head home
376
00:27:24,120 --> 00:27:26,160
after working for a long time
in Antarctic conditions.
377
00:27:26,880 --> 00:27:30,400
They will be replaced by the team
of the 30th Antarctic Expedition.
378
00:27:30,480 --> 00:27:32,760
They are currently preparing
to depart for the station.
379
00:27:33,280 --> 00:27:38,840
Boarding the boat here
is done via a Jacob's ladder.
380
00:27:39,520 --> 00:27:40,640
When there are waves at sea,
381
00:27:40,720 --> 00:27:44,720
climbing this ladder turns into
a real Fort Boyard,
382
00:27:44,800 --> 00:27:47,160
because you can easily fall off here.
383
00:27:57,960 --> 00:28:00,400
The polar explorers are heading
to Vernadsky Station,
384
00:28:00,480 --> 00:28:03,720
and they will return
to the icebreaker in a year.
385
00:28:03,800 --> 00:28:06,000
This is not the last time we’ll see them.
386
00:28:06,080 --> 00:28:09,600
Now, some important information
about this region.
387
00:28:09,680 --> 00:28:12,920
The nearest ATB supermarket
is about 15,000 kilometers away.
388
00:28:13,000 --> 00:28:16,200
So I can't just run out
to grab some chips whenever I want.
389
00:28:16,280 --> 00:28:20,320
Therefore, to allow 13 people to live
for a year in Antarctic conditions,
390
00:28:20,400 --> 00:28:23,480
it’s necessary to deliver
enough provisions,
391
00:28:23,560 --> 00:28:25,240
fuel, and materials to the station.
392
00:28:25,320 --> 00:28:27,800
All of this must be
very precisely calculated.
393
00:28:27,880 --> 00:28:31,360
It's not fun to be without food
in the Antarctic winter.
394
00:28:32,160 --> 00:28:34,600
Frankly, it's not a very good scenario.
395
00:28:40,640 --> 00:28:42,080
This is the Noosfera's hold,
396
00:28:42,160 --> 00:28:45,720
which carries several dozen tons of cargo.
397
00:28:45,800 --> 00:28:48,280
Everything that's needed
to survive the harsh winter,
398
00:28:48,360 --> 00:28:50,040
from fresh vegetables to medications.
399
00:28:50,120 --> 00:28:52,040
This is just a small part
400
00:28:52,120 --> 00:28:54,160
of what the Ukrainian
icebreaker can carry.
401
00:28:54,240 --> 00:28:56,440
Before we had the Noosfera,
402
00:28:56,520 --> 00:28:59,120
we used or chartered ships
from other countries
403
00:28:59,200 --> 00:29:02,600
to deliver the crew
and cargo to Vernadsky.
404
00:29:03,200 --> 00:29:05,360
That was quite complicated and expensive.
405
00:29:05,440 --> 00:29:09,840
The demand for those kinds
of vessels here is enormous.
406
00:29:10,480 --> 00:29:13,520
The Ukrainian Antarctic Expedition is
no longer dependent on anyone now.
407
00:29:13,600 --> 00:29:15,800
On the contrary,
we can now provide services
408
00:29:15,880 --> 00:29:17,600
to other countries ourselves.
409
00:29:17,680 --> 00:29:20,160
Spoiler, we are really on top of this.
410
00:29:20,760 --> 00:29:23,000
On the return from Antarctica,
411
00:29:23,080 --> 00:29:25,360
the Noosfera brought
polar explorers back to Chile
412
00:29:25,440 --> 00:29:27,840
from the Polish station, Henryk Arctowski.
413
00:29:28,520 --> 00:29:32,280
Here is the Polish station behind me.
414
00:29:32,360 --> 00:29:34,800
Previously, both the Polish
and several other stations
415
00:29:34,880 --> 00:29:37,360
were serviced by the Russian vessel,
Akademik Fedorov.
416
00:29:37,440 --> 00:29:39,120
It was before the full-scale invasion.
417
00:29:39,732 --> 00:29:42,120
All these contracts have been
taken over by the Noosfera.
418
00:29:44,040 --> 00:29:48,880
This Ukrainian vessel services
not only the Polish station,
419
00:29:48,960 --> 00:29:51,120
it also services
the Spanish station, Gabriel de Castill,
420
00:29:51,200 --> 00:29:52,760
and the American station, Palmer.
421
00:29:53,800 --> 00:29:56,360
The demand
for the Noosfera's logistics services
422
00:29:56,440 --> 00:29:59,480
is much greater
than the ship can currently handle.
423
00:30:00,000 --> 00:30:01,440
The main obstacle is its age.
424
00:30:01,520 --> 00:30:03,000
The icebreaker is 35 years old,
425
00:30:03,080 --> 00:30:07,000
and it requires technical maintenance
much more often than a new vessel.
426
00:30:16,160 --> 00:30:21,440
Honestly, I only realized it
while loading this lifeboat,
427
00:30:21,520 --> 00:30:26,280
that we have finally reached
Antarctica, the station.
428
00:30:27,960 --> 00:30:33,120
I thought this was
the most remote place I had traveled to.
429
00:30:33,840 --> 00:30:34,880
Turns out, it wasn’t.
430
00:30:34,960 --> 00:30:36,200
New Zealand was farther.
431
00:30:36,280 --> 00:30:39,880
It really feels like
it's the edge of the world.
432
00:30:39,960 --> 00:30:42,280
I’ve said many times
that I’m at the edge of the world.
433
00:30:42,360 --> 00:30:44,800
This is truly that edge.
434
00:30:52,640 --> 00:30:55,280
As soon as the lifeboat departed
from the Noosfera,
435
00:30:55,360 --> 00:30:57,600
new boats began mooring to the icebreaker.
436
00:30:58,360 --> 00:31:02,040
Their task was to quickly load
and deliver to the station
437
00:31:02,120 --> 00:31:05,520
the supplies for the polar explorers
that had arrived in the ship’s holds.
438
00:31:06,840 --> 00:31:08,680
In about two months,
439
00:31:08,760 --> 00:31:11,360
this entire area will be covered with ice,
440
00:31:11,440 --> 00:31:14,080
and any navigation will become impossible.
441
00:31:14,160 --> 00:31:16,440
Meaning people will
literally be blocked in here.
442
00:31:17,640 --> 00:31:19,040
One of the most important
443
00:31:19,120 --> 00:31:21,400
and most difficult things
to transport is fuel.
444
00:31:21,480 --> 00:31:24,720
These tanks for carrying fuel
are loaded onto the boats.
445
00:31:25,640 --> 00:31:29,000
Each of these tanks holds
roughly one ton of diesel fuel.
446
00:31:29,080 --> 00:31:30,640
Over the next six days,
447
00:31:30,720 --> 00:31:33,560
140 of them need to be delivered.
448
00:31:34,160 --> 00:31:35,840
Zodiac boats are completely open,
449
00:31:35,920 --> 00:31:38,520
so being the boat's driver in a blizzard
450
00:31:38,600 --> 00:31:40,680
is not an easy thing.
451
00:31:41,440 --> 00:31:42,920
But there is no other choice.
452
00:31:43,000 --> 00:31:44,800
The Noosfera does not have much time,
453
00:31:44,880 --> 00:31:46,000
only about a week,
454
00:31:46,080 --> 00:31:49,440
to deliver the cargo to the station.
455
00:31:50,480 --> 00:31:52,520
The main obstacle is the weather,
456
00:31:52,600 --> 00:31:55,120
because the boats can only moor
to the icebreaker
457
00:31:55,200 --> 00:31:57,680
in relatively calm seas.
458
00:31:58,320 --> 00:32:01,560
During loading, crane operations,
even in mild storms,
459
00:32:01,640 --> 00:32:03,520
can be extremely dangerous,
460
00:32:03,600 --> 00:32:05,440
especially if fuel is being loaded.
461
00:32:06,040 --> 00:32:08,520
So, if the sea is calm
and there are no waves,
462
00:32:08,600 --> 00:32:10,920
the work continues right into the night.
463
00:32:13,920 --> 00:32:17,400
You already know what a night
on the Noosfera looks like.
464
00:32:18,172 --> 00:32:22,680
Iceberg movement is monitored
with four spotlights.
465
00:32:23,280 --> 00:32:26,040
If the crew realizes
that an iceberg is approaching the ship,
466
00:32:26,120 --> 00:32:28,880
the Noosfera must quickly move
to a safe distance.
467
00:32:29,400 --> 00:32:33,040
The icebreaker is currently held in place
without an anchor,
468
00:32:33,120 --> 00:32:35,640
This is how
its dynamic positioning system works.
469
00:32:36,160 --> 00:32:38,360
The computer automatically controls
the engines
470
00:32:38,440 --> 00:32:41,640
to keep the vessel in place
within a few centimeters.
471
00:32:41,720 --> 00:32:42,760
In case of danger,
472
00:32:42,840 --> 00:32:44,760
the Noosfera doesn’t waste time
lifting an anchor,
473
00:32:44,840 --> 00:32:47,680
but immediately accelerates
and changes its position.
474
00:32:51,920 --> 00:32:57,480
During our stay in this strait,
the icebreaker did this at least once.
475
00:32:57,560 --> 00:33:01,120
This was because icebergs began
blocking us from all sides.
476
00:33:01,582 --> 00:33:05,312
DAY 6
477
00:33:06,960 --> 00:33:09,120
When all the loading bustle eases a bit,
478
00:33:09,200 --> 00:33:14,520
the first thing you notice
is Antarctica’s wildlife.
479
00:33:18,480 --> 00:33:21,680
Whales swim around, birds fly,
480
00:33:22,200 --> 00:33:24,880
huge schools of fish jump out of the sea.
481
00:33:25,600 --> 00:33:26,600
Wait a minute...
482
00:33:26,680 --> 00:33:27,880
I'm not sure about the fish.
483
00:33:28,560 --> 00:33:31,360
Let’s watch that again in slow motion.
484
00:33:32,440 --> 00:33:34,840
Oh, now I see...
485
00:33:35,380 --> 00:33:38,640
Sorry, I thought they were fish,
but they were penguins.
486
00:33:39,040 --> 00:33:42,800
So yes, penguins are
jumping around, birds are flying,
487
00:33:42,880 --> 00:33:45,640
and almost immediately after
I launched the drone,
488
00:33:45,720 --> 00:33:50,680
I spotted my first whale swimming nearby.
489
00:34:01,747 --> 00:34:03,400
This is a humpback whale.
490
00:34:03,480 --> 00:34:05,400
They’re the most common in Antarctica.
491
00:34:05,480 --> 00:34:07,240
Here, they mainly feed
492
00:34:07,320 --> 00:34:09,800
because Antarctic waters
have an abundance of krill,
493
00:34:09,880 --> 00:34:11,680
which is a kind of Antarctic shrimp.
494
00:34:11,760 --> 00:34:15,000
But for mating purposes,
they migrate closer to the equator.
495
00:34:15,080 --> 00:34:17,240
That’s about 8,000 km away.
496
00:34:17,320 --> 00:34:20,440
They cover that distance
every single year.
497
00:34:29,280 --> 00:34:31,720
Eventually, the whale spread its fins,
498
00:34:31,800 --> 00:34:34,960
humpback whales really
do have enormous fins,
499
00:34:35,040 --> 00:34:36,560
and dove deep underwater.
500
00:34:36,640 --> 00:34:38,920
Most likely, it went to look for food.
501
00:34:39,000 --> 00:34:41,240
I’ve filmed whales in different places,
502
00:34:41,320 --> 00:34:43,960
but to see one right on the first day,
503
00:34:44,040 --> 00:34:46,560
just like that...
504
00:34:48,360 --> 00:34:50,320
I’ve never experienced that before.
505
00:34:50,400 --> 00:34:52,520
And it wasn’t just one whale,
506
00:34:52,600 --> 00:34:55,520
there were, honestly, dozens of them.
507
00:34:55,600 --> 00:34:57,160
I've definitely seen a few whales today.
508
00:34:57,240 --> 00:34:59,160
This is a real whale party out here.
509
00:35:01,360 --> 00:35:02,280
It's just...
510
00:35:03,080 --> 00:35:03,920
I'm so impressed.
511
00:35:04,720 --> 00:35:05,760
That's crazy!
512
00:35:18,960 --> 00:35:20,120
As you remember,
513
00:35:20,200 --> 00:35:22,920
to reach the station,
you have to pass through a strait,
514
00:35:23,000 --> 00:35:25,880
where the ice conditions
can change several times a day.
515
00:35:26,760 --> 00:35:28,240
But we were lucky.
516
00:35:46,400 --> 00:35:49,440
I’d like to say
that my foot has now stepped
517
00:35:49,520 --> 00:35:51,960
onto the last continent
I had yet to visit,
518
00:35:52,040 --> 00:35:53,200
but that’s not entirely true.
519
00:35:53,280 --> 00:35:55,200
The Ukrainian station
is located on an island.
520
00:35:55,280 --> 00:35:57,080
Technically, this is not yet Antarctica,
521
00:35:57,160 --> 00:35:58,160
it’s still the Antarctic.
522
00:35:59,000 --> 00:36:01,000
The continent itself is
just within arm’s reach.
523
00:36:01,080 --> 00:36:02,920
In fact, you can see it now.
524
00:36:03,000 --> 00:36:05,240
Those massive mountains in the background,
525
00:36:05,320 --> 00:36:06,680
separated by a strait.
526
00:36:07,440 --> 00:36:10,640
{\an8}This part of the mainland
is called the Kyiv Peninsula.
527
00:36:10,720 --> 00:36:12,120
{\an8}This is a real toponym.
528
00:36:12,200 --> 00:36:13,960
{\an8}It's probably the only Kyiv in the world
529
00:36:14,040 --> 00:36:16,800
that hasn’t yet been covered
in high-rise buildings.
530
00:36:23,400 --> 00:36:26,640
{\an8}Vernadsky Station is located
on Galindez Island.
531
00:36:26,720 --> 00:36:29,800
{\an8}It’s actually tiny,
less than one square kilometer.
532
00:36:29,880 --> 00:36:33,640
The main buildings are concentrated
on a small patch of land.
533
00:36:33,720 --> 00:36:36,240
So it’s almost like
a holiday cottage here.
534
00:36:43,240 --> 00:36:45,800
Before this blue-and-yellow flag
was raised here,
535
00:36:45,880 --> 00:36:47,760
the station belonged to the British.
536
00:36:47,840 --> 00:36:51,000
It was handed over to us for free in 1996.
537
00:36:51,080 --> 00:36:53,680
That was a goodwill gesture
from the British government,
538
00:36:53,760 --> 00:36:55,240
because after the collapse of the USSR,
539
00:36:55,320 --> 00:36:59,760
Russia denied Ukraine all 12
Soviet Antarctic stations.
540
00:36:59,840 --> 00:37:02,960
It declared itself their sole successor.
541
00:37:03,720 --> 00:37:05,600
Well then, welcome.
542
00:37:06,920 --> 00:37:08,760
Damn, I forgot...
543
00:37:10,160 --> 00:37:14,160
All the doors here open inward.
544
00:37:16,640 --> 00:37:19,480
There's so much snow here in winter,
545
00:37:19,560 --> 00:37:24,040
so you simply couldn’t open them outward.
546
00:37:30,880 --> 00:37:32,720
Let’s take a look around.
547
00:37:33,800 --> 00:37:36,840
Here we see this big green building,
548
00:37:36,920 --> 00:37:38,520
which is the central one at the station.
549
00:37:43,040 --> 00:37:44,280
Passing through the changing room,
550
00:37:44,360 --> 00:37:48,400
you then enter a long corridor
lined with old pictures.
551
00:37:48,880 --> 00:37:51,520
There are a lot
of different artifacts here.
552
00:37:51,600 --> 00:37:53,400
An autograph of Thor Heyerdahl,
553
00:37:53,480 --> 00:37:55,480
and a picture of Bill Gates,
554
00:37:55,560 --> 00:37:59,360
{\an8}who visited Vernadsky
with his family back in 2010.
555
00:37:59,880 --> 00:38:03,000
Here you’ll find the biology lab,
the radio station,
556
00:38:03,080 --> 00:38:06,000
the station commander’s office,
557
00:38:06,080 --> 00:38:09,560
as well as two items
you’d least expect to see here.
558
00:38:09,640 --> 00:38:11,880
A snowboard and a crossbow.
559
00:38:12,000 --> 00:38:14,360
I’ll explain later why they’re here.
560
00:38:15,080 --> 00:38:17,600
For about nine months of the year,
561
00:38:17,680 --> 00:38:21,000
Vernadsky Station is completely cut off
from the outside world.
562
00:38:21,080 --> 00:38:24,160
You can neither get here nor leave.
563
00:38:24,240 --> 00:38:27,360
So if something happens,
no help will arrive.
564
00:38:27,960 --> 00:38:31,120
Everything follows one
very important rule here.
565
00:38:31,200 --> 00:38:33,560
And this rule is "Better safe than sorry."
566
00:38:33,640 --> 00:38:35,720
There are three generators
powering everything here.
567
00:38:35,800 --> 00:38:37,160
The first one is running,
568
00:38:37,240 --> 00:38:38,880
the second one is undergoing maintenance,
569
00:38:38,960 --> 00:38:40,400
the third is kept just in case.
570
00:38:40,480 --> 00:38:41,320
There are two boilers.
571
00:38:41,400 --> 00:38:44,320
But again, there’s also
an electric one, just in case,
572
00:38:45,120 --> 00:38:46,240
The fuel tank,
573
00:38:46,320 --> 00:38:48,360
designed for the station
by the Paton Institute,
574
00:38:48,440 --> 00:38:50,160
has a double hull.
575
00:38:50,720 --> 00:38:53,240
Finally, there is a spare building.
576
00:38:53,760 --> 00:38:54,960
Also just in case.
577
00:38:55,560 --> 00:38:58,600
The main building, constructed
by the British, is made of wood.
578
00:38:58,680 --> 00:39:02,560
Fire is probably
the worst-case scenario here.
579
00:39:02,640 --> 00:39:05,400
Every wall is covered
with fire extinguishers.
580
00:39:06,640 --> 00:39:08,720
Another crucial aspect
is self-sufficiency.
581
00:39:08,800 --> 00:39:12,920
The team must be able to survive
a whole year without outside help.
582
00:39:13,000 --> 00:39:15,320
There are bottles of water everywhere,
583
00:39:15,400 --> 00:39:17,520
but there are not enough
to last that long.
584
00:39:17,600 --> 00:39:20,440
The water here is taken
from the ocean, desalinated,
585
00:39:20,520 --> 00:39:23,200
then the water mineralized
and supplied through the tap.
586
00:39:23,280 --> 00:39:28,280
It's desalinated, mineralized water
from the Southern Ocean.
587
00:39:32,000 --> 00:39:33,840
It tastes like regular water.
588
00:39:34,560 --> 00:39:36,480
Another interesting area is medicine.
589
00:39:37,440 --> 00:39:39,080
Meet Ivanka,
590
00:39:39,160 --> 00:39:42,120
the doctor of the 29th
Ukrainian Antarctic Expedition.
591
00:39:42,800 --> 00:39:43,920
Come in, please.
592
00:39:44,000 --> 00:39:46,080
Being already almost middle-aged,
593
00:39:46,160 --> 00:39:50,040
the first thing I asked Ivanka
was to show me the medical storerooms.
594
00:39:50,120 --> 00:39:55,760
Here's what you can see here.
Medicine for every need.
595
00:39:55,840 --> 00:39:58,560
The same applies
to the doctor at the station.
596
00:39:58,640 --> 00:40:00,840
They're a very broad specialist
597
00:40:00,920 --> 00:40:03,520
who can do far more
than an ordinary physician.
598
00:40:03,600 --> 00:40:06,560
For example, take X-rays and treat teeth.
599
00:40:06,640 --> 00:40:09,880
There is a separate dental office.
600
00:40:09,960 --> 00:40:12,720
Ivanka knows how to use all of it.
601
00:40:12,800 --> 00:40:15,600
I think many of you
have seen this picture,
602
00:40:15,680 --> 00:40:18,400
a Soviet polar explorer
603
00:40:18,480 --> 00:40:20,960
removing his own appendix in Antarctica.
604
00:40:21,040 --> 00:40:24,800
Because he was the doctor
and the only person at the station
605
00:40:24,880 --> 00:40:27,200
capable of carrying out such an operation.
606
00:40:27,280 --> 00:40:31,320
Some countries take radical measures
to avoid such incidents,
607
00:40:32,120 --> 00:40:35,040
In Australia, doctors wintering
at Antarctic stations
608
00:40:35,120 --> 00:40:37,360
are required to have
an appendectomy before the trip.
609
00:40:38,000 --> 00:40:39,560
Chile has gone even further.
610
00:40:40,040 --> 00:40:42,040
At the Chilean settlement
on King George Island,
611
00:40:42,120 --> 00:40:45,240
all long-term residents,
including children,
612
00:40:45,320 --> 00:40:47,360
must have their appendix removed
before moving there.
613
00:40:47,960 --> 00:40:50,560
There are no such requirements
at the Ukrainian station.
614
00:40:50,640 --> 00:40:52,200
We didn't have that.
615
00:40:52,280 --> 00:40:58,280
But we did have to undergo
an upper endoscopy,
616
00:40:58,360 --> 00:40:59,720
that is, to swallow a tube.
617
00:40:59,800 --> 00:41:02,600
That’s the standard procedure
for anyone coming here.
618
00:41:02,680 --> 00:41:04,520
By the way, polar explorers
619
00:41:04,600 --> 00:41:07,160
almost never get colds
or the flu in winter.
620
00:41:07,240 --> 00:41:11,000
There’s simply no one here
to spread those illnesses.
621
00:41:11,560 --> 00:41:14,440
The first cases appeared
with the first visiting tourists.
622
00:41:14,960 --> 00:41:16,640
Yes, tourists do come here.
623
00:41:16,720 --> 00:41:20,200
About 4,000 people would visit the station
every year, before COVID times.
624
00:41:21,000 --> 00:41:23,440
It must be said that tours to Antarctica
625
00:41:23,520 --> 00:41:26,880
are probably one of
the most expensive types of tourism.
626
00:41:27,840 --> 00:41:31,880
The cheapest cruise I found
started at around $12,000.
627
00:41:31,960 --> 00:41:34,920
Usually, the tickets cost
between $15,000 and $20,000 per person.
628
00:41:35,000 --> 00:41:37,880
And that’s the lower end.
It can be more expensive.
629
00:41:40,160 --> 00:41:43,560
The conditions the polar explorers live in
can’t be called ascetic,
630
00:41:43,640 --> 00:41:45,480
but it’s definitely not a hotel.
631
00:41:46,160 --> 00:41:49,280
The rooms are very similar
to train compartments on Ukrzaliznytsia.
632
00:41:50,080 --> 00:41:53,400
I have to speak in whispers
because everyone’s sleeping.
633
00:41:54,040 --> 00:41:58,080
The partitions between the rooms
are very thin here.
634
00:41:58,160 --> 00:42:01,720
People just don't set alarms here.
635
00:42:01,800 --> 00:42:04,040
An alarm might wake up your neighbor.
636
00:42:04,120 --> 00:42:05,840
Instead, people are woken up by touch,
637
00:42:05,920 --> 00:42:08,160
and requests are left on this board.
638
00:42:08,240 --> 00:42:11,200
Here’s an example.
Tania has the night shift.
639
00:42:11,280 --> 00:42:13,720
She wants to be woken up
at half past eleven.
640
00:42:14,280 --> 00:42:17,360
Rounds are made every hour,
both day and night.
641
00:42:17,440 --> 00:42:19,760
It's done to check the main equipment,
642
00:42:19,840 --> 00:42:21,480
whether the generator is running properly,
643
00:42:21,560 --> 00:42:24,280
and whether
the food storage fridges are okay.
644
00:42:24,360 --> 00:42:26,160
Again, just to be safe.
645
00:42:29,000 --> 00:42:30,280
Look at this.
646
00:42:30,840 --> 00:42:31,920
Speaking of food.
647
00:42:33,640 --> 00:42:36,080
Food in Antarctica is more than just food.
648
00:42:36,680 --> 00:42:40,320
Polar explorers burn calories
because of the cold and stress.
649
00:42:40,400 --> 00:42:44,760
Tasty, varied meals are very important.
650
00:42:44,840 --> 00:42:47,440
Food provides psychological support
for the team in isolation.
651
00:42:48,080 --> 00:42:51,560
That’s why the cook is one of
the most important people.
652
00:42:51,640 --> 00:42:52,880
A lot depends on them.
653
00:42:52,960 --> 00:42:56,320
And they're the only team member
with an official day off.
654
00:42:56,400 --> 00:42:58,360
On Sundays,
the other polar explorers cook.
655
00:42:58,440 --> 00:42:59,680
Everyone uses their own skills.
656
00:42:59,760 --> 00:43:02,560
As you may have guessed,
it's Sunday today.
657
00:43:03,120 --> 00:43:07,240
Nazar is a young and talented chef
on the 29th expedition,
658
00:43:08,120 --> 00:43:09,720
When I came into his kitchen,
659
00:43:09,800 --> 00:43:12,040
Nazar was making cheese
using Carpathian recipes
660
00:43:12,120 --> 00:43:14,360
and cinnamon rolls in Antarctic style.
661
00:43:14,440 --> 00:43:16,600
Powdered milk...
662
00:43:16,680 --> 00:43:19,440
A lot of butter...
663
00:43:19,520 --> 00:43:21,760
This is a good, fatty,
delicious, high-calorie bun.
664
00:43:21,840 --> 00:43:24,600
We make them in different sizes.
665
00:43:24,680 --> 00:43:26,360
Everyone can choose what they want.
666
00:43:26,440 --> 00:43:28,320
Polar explorers have different appetites.
667
00:43:29,320 --> 00:43:30,720
Someone needs two big buns,
668
00:43:30,800 --> 00:43:32,520
while for others, one small is enough.
669
00:43:33,400 --> 00:43:38,600
Katsurin and I have said many times
on "The Food of Ukraine,"
670
00:43:38,680 --> 00:43:40,800
“Look, this is the best,
the most beautiful kitchen."
671
00:43:40,880 --> 00:43:41,880
"The view is incredible.”
672
00:43:41,960 --> 00:43:47,640
This one actually has the best view.
673
00:43:53,360 --> 00:43:55,040
I'd give four out of five stars.
It's tasty.
674
00:43:55,120 --> 00:43:59,360
The biggest challenge with food
in Antarctica is storing it.
675
00:43:59,920 --> 00:44:04,240
Here, it’s stored in all possible forms,
from fermentation to dehydration.
676
00:44:04,320 --> 00:44:05,480
This is salted pork.
677
00:44:06,680 --> 00:44:07,880
Wait a second.
678
00:44:07,960 --> 00:44:09,920
This is a salted pork
that has been hanging here
679
00:44:10,000 --> 00:44:10,960
for more than a year.
680
00:44:11,040 --> 00:44:14,200
Meaning it's from the previous year.
681
00:44:14,280 --> 00:44:16,560
The pork was 1.7 kilograms.
682
00:44:16,640 --> 00:44:18,800
It is a bit smaller now.
It has dried a bit.
683
00:44:18,880 --> 00:44:21,560
We will try it when we switch shifts.
684
00:44:22,400 --> 00:44:24,120
Some 70 years ago,
685
00:44:24,200 --> 00:44:27,600
the food for polar explorers
was not so varied.
686
00:44:28,760 --> 00:44:31,800
This old cookbook has recipes
687
00:44:31,880 --> 00:44:34,920
that the British Antarctic station
overwinterers used
688
00:44:35,000 --> 00:44:36,680
back in the 1950s.
689
00:44:37,280 --> 00:44:39,560
Here you’ll find roulades of seal
690
00:44:39,640 --> 00:44:41,520
and roast penguin breast.
691
00:44:44,200 --> 00:44:46,080
It sounds strange even hearing that,
692
00:44:46,160 --> 00:44:49,640
as Antarctic wildlife
is strictly protected today.
693
00:44:49,720 --> 00:44:52,840
Penguins are one of
the main symbols of Vernadsky.
694
00:45:02,360 --> 00:45:05,240
The first creatures you see
at the station are penguins.
695
00:45:05,320 --> 00:45:09,760
They are the ones to greet
newcomers right at the pier.
696
00:45:15,360 --> 00:45:17,160
There are two piers at Vernadsky Station.
697
00:45:17,240 --> 00:45:19,240
Both piers are guarded by penguins.
698
00:45:24,800 --> 00:45:27,200
The biggest colony is
at the edge of the island,
699
00:45:27,280 --> 00:45:29,360
{\an8}at a place called Penguin Point.
700
00:45:29,440 --> 00:45:31,680
{\an8}PENGUIN POINT
701
00:45:35,440 --> 00:45:38,680
Around 6,000 penguins
live on Galindez Island.
702
00:45:38,760 --> 00:45:40,720
If you wonder how they’re counted,
703
00:45:40,800 --> 00:45:43,120
well, using a drone.
704
00:45:43,200 --> 00:45:45,440
They just count these little white dots.
705
00:45:48,200 --> 00:45:49,680
It’s done by biologists,
706
00:45:49,760 --> 00:45:51,360
who work on many other research tasks
707
00:45:51,440 --> 00:45:53,440
besides counting penguins.
708
00:45:53,520 --> 00:45:56,040
Let’s take a closer look now
709
00:45:56,120 --> 00:45:58,920
at what Ukrainian polar explorers
actually do.
710
00:45:59,997 --> 00:46:01,080
METEOROLOGY
711
00:46:01,160 --> 00:46:03,840
First, meteorological research.
712
00:46:07,360 --> 00:46:11,600
Antarctica plays a key role
in global atmospheric circulation.
713
00:46:12,240 --> 00:46:16,640
This region influences the weather
across the whole planet.
714
00:46:18,080 --> 00:46:19,960
Winds in America or Europe can be strong.
715
00:46:20,040 --> 00:46:23,360
It all depends on the situation
at the South Pole.
716
00:46:23,840 --> 00:46:28,320
Antarctic meteorological data
is critical for aviation.
717
00:46:28,400 --> 00:46:30,800
It is key for sailing
and climate forecasting too.
718
00:46:31,280 --> 00:46:33,360
Without knowing the weather in Antarctica,
719
00:46:33,440 --> 00:46:35,880
the weather elsewhere
would be far less predictable.
720
00:46:35,960 --> 00:46:39,920
That’s why constant
weather monitoring here is so important.
721
00:46:40,000 --> 00:46:42,120
The first polar stations in Antarctica,
722
00:46:42,200 --> 00:46:43,640
like this British one,
723
00:46:43,720 --> 00:46:46,600
were established here
specifically for meteorology.
724
00:46:46,680 --> 00:46:48,320
That's how important they are here.
725
00:46:50,880 --> 00:46:55,400
Сlimate research projects
are the longest in Antarctica.
726
00:46:55,480 --> 00:46:59,200
They have been conducted
every day since 1947.
727
00:46:59,280 --> 00:47:02,040
That is, for almost 80 years continuously.
728
00:47:04,320 --> 00:47:06,640
Thanks to this huge dataset,
729
00:47:06,720 --> 00:47:09,040
scientists have determined
that over the past 70 years,
730
00:47:09,120 --> 00:47:11,480
the average annual temperature
in Antarctica
731
00:47:11,560 --> 00:47:13,280
has risen by 4°C.
732
00:47:14,920 --> 00:47:18,640
The highest temperature
I personally recorded here was 6°C.
733
00:47:19,560 --> 00:47:22,240
You thought Antarctica
was really cold too, right?
734
00:47:23,320 --> 00:47:25,360
Actually, no.
735
00:47:25,440 --> 00:47:27,120
Sure, it can get very cold here,
736
00:47:27,200 --> 00:47:31,960
and the lowest ever recorded
on the continent was -89°C.
737
00:47:32,040 --> 00:47:34,960
But that was on the Antarctic continent.
738
00:47:35,040 --> 00:47:37,920
Here, in the Antarctic,
at Vernadsky Station
739
00:47:38,000 --> 00:47:40,800
winter temperatures
are usually around -15°C.
740
00:47:41,440 --> 00:47:44,640
This place is famous
for its very strong winds.
741
00:47:44,720 --> 00:47:49,000
Last year, winds of about
45 m/s were recorded here.
742
00:47:49,080 --> 00:47:51,520
That’s roughly 160 km/h.
743
00:47:52,080 --> 00:47:53,720
This boat, which had been secured,
744
00:47:53,800 --> 00:47:55,000
was almost blown off the pier.
745
00:47:55,080 --> 00:47:56,760
And throw some snow in.
746
00:47:56,840 --> 00:47:57,720
A lot of snow.
747
00:47:57,800 --> 00:48:00,560
As for the amount of snow
that falls at Vernadsky.
748
00:48:01,080 --> 00:48:02,520
See that ladder?
749
00:48:03,400 --> 00:48:05,000
It's here for a reason.
750
00:48:05,960 --> 00:48:09,640
Snow usually covers
the entire first floor.
751
00:48:09,720 --> 00:48:13,280
And people use this ladder,
via that balcony, to go outside.
752
00:48:16,240 --> 00:48:17,360
And now it looks like this.
753
00:48:18,520 --> 00:48:19,520
This is a fur seal.
754
00:48:19,600 --> 00:48:23,720
Explorers said a fur seal once
warmed itself here in winter.
755
00:48:23,800 --> 00:48:27,240
Because snow filled
the first floor up to the roof.
756
00:48:28,480 --> 00:48:30,640
Just look at this weather now.
757
00:48:30,720 --> 00:48:34,080
It's just autumn.
It's not even winter yet.
758
00:48:34,160 --> 00:48:36,880
But the meteorologists
will be working all night.
759
00:48:37,360 --> 00:48:39,160
They’ve gone to launch
a weather balloon.
760
00:48:39,640 --> 00:48:41,880
That’s how weather data is collected.
761
00:48:43,000 --> 00:48:47,360
The data is collected here
eight times a day, no exceptions.
762
00:48:47,440 --> 00:48:51,040
Every three hours, the weather data is...
763
00:48:51,120 --> 00:48:52,440
Now it's snowing...
764
00:48:52,520 --> 00:48:58,480
They’ll know about it within
three hours in Greenwich, London,
765
00:48:58,560 --> 00:49:00,800
They will compile the weather forecast.
766
00:49:00,880 --> 00:49:03,920
When you read
the weather forecast in your city,
767
00:49:04,000 --> 00:49:09,680
it’s partly thanks
to the meteorologists at Vernadsky.
768
00:49:11,520 --> 00:49:14,760
Another line of research here
is chemistry and geophysics.
769
00:49:14,840 --> 00:49:17,160
By which they mean atmospheric chemistry.
770
00:49:17,240 --> 00:49:19,680
The main studies focus on ozone levels.
771
00:49:20,440 --> 00:49:22,560
It's measured here through the ozone hole.
772
00:49:22,640 --> 00:49:25,040
It was discovered right here at Vernadsky.
773
00:49:25,120 --> 00:49:28,040
Back then, the station was British
and called Faraday.
774
00:49:28,120 --> 00:49:31,160
Since then,
this hole either increases or decreases.
775
00:49:31,240 --> 00:49:34,040
But it constantly looms over Antarctica.
776
00:49:34,680 --> 00:49:37,600
That’s why it’s so important
to monitor the ozone layer.
777
00:49:37,680 --> 00:49:42,560
The ozone layer blocks
harmful ultraviolet radiation.
778
00:49:43,640 --> 00:49:47,920
This data is updated daily
as notes on a board.
779
00:49:48,440 --> 00:49:50,120
The lower the number,
780
00:49:50,200 --> 00:49:52,360
the more you need
to protect yourself from UV.
781
00:49:52,880 --> 00:49:55,360
If ozone levels
in the atmosphere are low,
782
00:49:55,440 --> 00:49:58,080
you need to put on sunscreen,
even on a cloudy day.
783
00:49:58,960 --> 00:50:00,920
If you don’t, then this might happen...
784
00:50:01,440 --> 00:50:04,760
You could end up on the cover
of a dermatology magazine.
785
00:50:05,760 --> 00:50:08,680
Measuring ozone at the station
is the job of a dedicated person,
786
00:50:08,760 --> 00:50:09,640
the ozone researcher.
787
00:50:09,720 --> 00:50:13,160
This devoted worker lives at work.
788
00:50:13,240 --> 00:50:14,080
Literally.
789
00:50:14,160 --> 00:50:15,560
There is the equipment right there,
790
00:50:15,640 --> 00:50:17,440
and underneath is the researcher's bed.
791
00:50:18,320 --> 00:50:20,600
Well, at least he has a private room.
792
00:50:21,800 --> 00:50:25,360
They also study the Earth’s magnetic field
793
00:50:25,440 --> 00:50:28,560
using sensors placed
in these two pavilions.
794
00:50:29,400 --> 00:50:31,160
They’re made of non-magnetic material
795
00:50:31,240 --> 00:50:33,280
and are located some distance away
from the station.
796
00:50:33,960 --> 00:50:36,680
Any iron object, even keys in your pocket,
797
00:50:36,760 --> 00:50:38,320
can affect their work.
798
00:50:38,400 --> 00:50:41,280
That’s why approaching
these pavilions is forbidden.
799
00:50:42,760 --> 00:50:44,480
Forbidden for everyone, but penguins.
800
00:50:44,960 --> 00:50:45,960
They’re allowed.
801
00:50:46,040 --> 00:50:48,480
Penguins are allowed everything here.
802
00:50:50,680 --> 00:50:53,720
It's the biologists here
who conduct research on them.
803
00:50:54,440 --> 00:50:55,560
And not just them,
804
00:50:55,640 --> 00:50:58,720
because biology is another
major area of work at the station.
805
00:50:58,800 --> 00:50:59,680
BIOLOGY
806
00:51:01,520 --> 00:51:05,160
They study microorganisms,
parasites and insects,
807
00:51:05,240 --> 00:51:08,520
They also study marine mammals,
including whales.
808
00:51:08,600 --> 00:51:11,840
You don’t even need
to go anywhere for that.
809
00:51:11,920 --> 00:51:14,320
You can just step onto the pier
and meet a whale.
810
00:51:14,400 --> 00:51:16,840
It's napping 30 meters from the station.
811
00:51:16,920 --> 00:51:20,120
They sleep here in pairs
or even in threes.
812
00:51:20,200 --> 00:51:22,160
It’s part of their social behavior.
813
00:51:22,800 --> 00:51:23,760
Just like dolphins,
814
00:51:23,840 --> 00:51:26,440
half of their brain stays active
during this time,
815
00:51:26,520 --> 00:51:30,120
to control breathing,
since whales breathe air.
816
00:51:30,200 --> 00:51:32,960
That’s why they need to surface
even while sleeping.
817
00:51:33,040 --> 00:51:34,040
Here's how it works.
818
00:51:36,480 --> 00:51:39,520
The whale takes a breath and dives again.
819
00:51:40,360 --> 00:51:42,840
So, now it’s time to explain
820
00:51:42,920 --> 00:51:44,760
why they have a crossbow at the station.
821
00:51:44,840 --> 00:51:49,080
It’s used to collect biopsies
from the whales.
822
00:51:49,160 --> 00:51:50,720
That is, a small sample of skin.
823
00:51:51,440 --> 00:51:52,600
There is a special arrow here,
824
00:51:52,680 --> 00:51:55,320
it has a slightly sharpened tip
and a float.
825
00:51:55,960 --> 00:51:57,400
Just one shot from the crossbow...
826
00:51:58,400 --> 00:52:02,200
Damn, this phrase sounds barbaric.
827
00:52:02,280 --> 00:52:04,640
Believe me, it’s not that bad.
828
00:52:05,600 --> 00:52:08,720
The crossbow shot is aimed
at the least sensitive spot,
829
00:52:08,800 --> 00:52:10,040
near the dorsal fin.
830
00:52:10,960 --> 00:52:12,480
If you are ready, let's shoot.
831
00:52:18,480 --> 00:52:20,000
It looks unpleasant,
832
00:52:20,080 --> 00:52:21,200
but the biologists say
833
00:52:21,280 --> 00:52:23,800
that it feels like
a mosquito bite for a whale.
834
00:52:24,520 --> 00:52:28,320
I don't think anyone has ever shot
a biologist with a crossbow,
835
00:52:28,400 --> 00:52:30,640
but let's just believe them.
836
00:52:32,600 --> 00:52:34,040
Whales here are identified
837
00:52:34,120 --> 00:52:36,600
by the pattern on their tail, a fluke.
838
00:52:36,680 --> 00:52:38,040
Each one is unique.
839
00:52:38,120 --> 00:52:39,600
It’s almost like a fingerprint,
840
00:52:39,680 --> 00:52:41,520
allowing individual animals
to be distinguished.
841
00:52:43,160 --> 00:52:45,320
Whales are studied so extensively here
842
00:52:45,400 --> 00:52:46,840
because they’re good bioindicators.
843
00:52:47,360 --> 00:52:49,440
Toxins accumulate in whale tissue,
844
00:52:49,520 --> 00:52:53,640
so a blubber biopsy allows us
to assess environmental pollution.
845
00:52:54,840 --> 00:52:58,840
I should admit that whales
are just adorable.
846
00:52:59,720 --> 00:53:02,680
When the weather is nice in Antarctica
and a whale’s in the right mood,
847
00:53:03,160 --> 00:53:06,000
he can do things like this.
848
00:53:06,480 --> 00:53:08,600
Just look at this swimmer.
849
00:53:14,760 --> 00:53:16,200
He relaxed so much
850
00:53:16,280 --> 00:53:18,400
that his fin brushed against the boat.
851
00:53:18,920 --> 00:53:20,960
At that moment,
Sashko was also on the boat,
852
00:53:21,040 --> 00:53:22,560
he's the station's system administrator.
853
00:53:22,640 --> 00:53:24,920
He was actually piloting the drone.
854
00:53:25,000 --> 00:53:26,800
Whales aren’t aggressive at all.
855
00:53:26,880 --> 00:53:31,880
We've seen hundreds of whales,
856
00:53:31,960 --> 00:53:34,400
and none of them showed
any aggression toward us.
857
00:53:34,480 --> 00:53:38,680
You can even see
when he was slapping with his flippers,
858
00:53:38,760 --> 00:53:42,120
this whale got scared himself
that he might hit something.
859
00:53:42,200 --> 00:53:46,880
The whale rolled back over,
shocked by what just happened.
860
00:53:51,760 --> 00:53:55,080
Another focus of the biologists
at Vernadsky is penguins.
861
00:53:55,960 --> 00:53:58,160
The station is unique in this sense,
862
00:53:58,240 --> 00:54:00,960
as penguins live here
as close to people as possible.
863
00:54:03,080 --> 00:54:04,560
It hasn't always been like that.
864
00:54:04,640 --> 00:54:07,360
In 2007, there were no penguins here.
865
00:54:07,920 --> 00:54:10,040
But due to global warming,
866
00:54:10,120 --> 00:54:12,480
they started nesting on Galindez.
867
00:54:14,400 --> 00:54:17,000
There are strict rules
regarding penguins here.
868
00:54:17,080 --> 00:54:19,840
Penguins always have the right of way.
869
00:54:19,920 --> 00:54:22,240
If your paths cross,
870
00:54:22,320 --> 00:54:23,720
you’re always on the secondary road.
871
00:54:23,800 --> 00:54:25,680
The penguin always has the right of way.
872
00:54:25,760 --> 00:54:27,720
You always have to let it pass.
873
00:54:31,120 --> 00:54:33,120
You’re also forbidden to touch them
874
00:54:33,200 --> 00:54:34,880
or get too close to them.
875
00:54:35,480 --> 00:54:37,240
But if you crouch down,
876
00:54:37,840 --> 00:54:40,320
making yourself look less tall
and threatening,
877
00:54:40,920 --> 00:54:43,640
well, you can see what happens.
878
00:54:45,480 --> 00:54:46,880
Penguins get curious
879
00:54:46,960 --> 00:54:49,160
and they usually approach on their own.
880
00:54:52,720 --> 00:54:55,360
That part isn’t regulated by the rules.
881
00:54:56,280 --> 00:55:00,240
Penguins from Vernadsky Station
are called subantarctic penguins
882
00:55:00,320 --> 00:55:01,680
or gentoo penguins.
883
00:55:01,760 --> 00:55:05,120
They have this white stripe on their head.
884
00:55:06,400 --> 00:55:09,280
There’s one more trait
that's unique to the gentoo.
885
00:55:09,360 --> 00:55:11,800
You know that penguins walk really funny,
886
00:55:11,880 --> 00:55:14,080
because of the way their bodies are built.
887
00:55:14,160 --> 00:55:15,680
As our polar explorers say,
888
00:55:15,760 --> 00:55:18,080
penguins are just swallows
that had a late-night snack.
889
00:55:21,880 --> 00:55:25,120
They slide on their bellies
across the snow,
890
00:55:25,200 --> 00:55:27,000
and that’s a pretty common technique.
891
00:55:31,040 --> 00:55:33,560
But gentoo penguins can really show
892
00:55:33,640 --> 00:55:35,520
their abilities in the water.
893
00:55:35,600 --> 00:55:37,840
That’s where everything
changes completely.
894
00:55:45,960 --> 00:55:49,560
It is very difficult
to film penguins moving underwater
895
00:55:49,640 --> 00:55:51,440
because of their incredible speed.
896
00:55:51,520 --> 00:55:54,480
Sorry, I really messed this up.
897
00:56:02,040 --> 00:56:06,920
Just look at this colony of penguins.
898
00:56:07,000 --> 00:56:10,400
Can the word "colony" be
used in relation to penguins?
899
00:56:10,480 --> 00:56:14,320
Anyway, look at their speed.
900
00:56:17,200 --> 00:56:19,640
Subantarctic penguins
are the fastest of them all.
901
00:56:20,240 --> 00:56:24,360
They can reach speeds
of up to 36 km/h underwater.
902
00:56:25,080 --> 00:56:26,360
Like a motorboat.
903
00:56:26,440 --> 00:56:30,320
You can see
this hydrodynamic trail in real life.
904
00:56:30,400 --> 00:56:32,760
It's something like a jet stream,
but underwater.
905
00:56:33,520 --> 00:56:36,000
That speed helps them escape predators
906
00:56:36,080 --> 00:56:37,360
and catch prey.
907
00:56:42,520 --> 00:56:44,200
Penguins feed on krill.
908
00:56:44,920 --> 00:56:47,960
Krill are tiny Antarctic shrimp,
which are very nutritious and healthy.
909
00:56:48,040 --> 00:56:51,080
Krill are used both as a bioresource,
and in pharmaceuticals,
910
00:56:51,160 --> 00:56:52,760
because omega-3 from krill
911
00:56:52,840 --> 00:56:55,160
is much better absorbed by our bodies
912
00:56:55,240 --> 00:56:56,840
than traditional fish oil.
913
00:56:57,440 --> 00:57:00,240
Almost everything
in Antarctica eats krill.
914
00:57:00,320 --> 00:57:03,480
This is a crucial part of the food chain.
915
00:57:06,040 --> 00:57:08,080
It’s time to talk about
something really important.
916
00:57:08,160 --> 00:57:11,840
I mean the way penguins defecate.
917
00:57:11,920 --> 00:57:14,400
Penguins very diligently build nests
out of pebbles
918
00:57:14,480 --> 00:57:16,400
so they can later incubate
their eggs there.
919
00:57:18,120 --> 00:57:20,320
The incubation itself lasts over a month.
920
00:57:20,400 --> 00:57:22,240
Both parents take turns doing it.
921
00:57:22,320 --> 00:57:24,920
There’s no option to relieve themselves,
922
00:57:25,000 --> 00:57:26,800
because skuas are always on patrol nearby.
923
00:57:26,880 --> 00:57:29,120
They’re big, very aggressive birds
924
00:57:29,200 --> 00:57:31,320
that hunt both eggs and chicks.
925
00:57:32,480 --> 00:57:34,920
Soiling the nest
isn’t a great option either.
926
00:57:35,000 --> 00:57:39,200
So, nature has gifted penguins
with very strong muscles.
927
00:57:39,280 --> 00:57:44,400
They can shoot their poop
without leaving the nest.
928
00:57:45,200 --> 00:57:46,840
Yes, you heard that right. Shoot it.
929
00:57:46,920 --> 00:57:48,120
And trust me,
930
00:57:48,200 --> 00:57:49,720
I’ve seen it with my own eyes.
931
00:57:53,320 --> 00:57:57,120
German scientists, quite seriously,
calculated how far
932
00:57:57,200 --> 00:58:00,280
they can do this using
all the laws of hydrodynamics.
933
00:58:01,840 --> 00:58:04,080
Just remember this number.
934
00:58:04,160 --> 00:58:06,040
You might meet a penguin one day.
935
00:58:06,120 --> 00:58:07,640
That's why you need to know that.
936
00:58:25,720 --> 00:58:28,480
Maybe some of you are already wondering,
937
00:58:28,560 --> 00:58:30,880
"What's the point
of biology in Antarctica?"
938
00:58:30,960 --> 00:58:32,920
What’s the benefit for us?
939
00:58:34,320 --> 00:58:36,520
Let me explain it
using an example from plants.
940
00:58:37,440 --> 00:58:42,200
This little plant is Antarctic pearlwort.
941
00:58:42,280 --> 00:58:45,040
There are only two plants
across the whole of Antarctica,
942
00:58:45,120 --> 00:58:46,920
Antarctic pearlwort and tussock grass.
943
00:58:47,000 --> 00:58:49,040
The naming is a separate story.
944
00:58:49,120 --> 00:58:52,600
But honestly, I was surprised.
945
00:58:52,680 --> 00:58:57,240
I never expected anything
to grow in Antarctica.
946
00:58:57,320 --> 00:59:00,000
Ukrainian scientists
asked the same question,
947
00:59:00,080 --> 00:59:01,760
"How can anything even grow here?"
948
00:59:01,840 --> 00:59:05,120
They checked the plants’ DNA
for possible mutations.
949
00:59:05,200 --> 00:59:06,880
They found nothing unusual.
950
00:59:06,960 --> 00:59:10,840
Then they hypothesized
that the bacteria inside the plants
951
00:59:10,920 --> 00:59:13,640
helped them survive in extreme conditions.
952
00:59:13,720 --> 00:59:16,200
It's like the good bacteria in our stomach
953
00:59:16,280 --> 00:59:17,280
that help with digestion.
954
00:59:17,360 --> 00:59:18,400
It's the same here.
955
00:59:18,480 --> 00:59:19,920
And this hypothesis was confirmed.
956
00:59:20,000 --> 00:59:22,720
Our biologists found that bacteria
in these plants.
957
00:59:23,520 --> 00:59:25,520
So where’s the benefit?
958
00:59:25,600 --> 00:59:27,640
In theory, these bacteria
959
00:59:27,720 --> 00:59:31,240
could be transferred to the plants we eat,
960
00:59:31,320 --> 00:59:32,880
like wheat, etc.,
961
00:59:32,960 --> 00:59:34,800
to help them grow better.
962
00:59:34,880 --> 00:59:38,120
Here is a practical use of science.
963
00:59:38,200 --> 00:59:39,720
It sounds simple,
964
00:59:39,800 --> 00:59:42,120
but it takes years of research
in practice.
965
00:59:42,200 --> 00:59:45,520
Science rarely has an instant effect,
966
00:59:45,600 --> 00:59:48,520
because research studies
always take a lot of time.
967
00:59:48,600 --> 00:59:51,760
But so much
of what we have today as humanity
968
00:59:51,840 --> 00:59:53,200
is thanks to science.
969
00:59:53,280 --> 00:59:54,600
The camera we use is science.
970
00:59:54,680 --> 00:59:55,920
The phone is science.
971
00:59:56,000 --> 00:59:58,000
The medicines we take, it's all science.
972
00:59:58,600 --> 01:00:00,360
Thanks to the research
at Vernadsky Station
973
01:00:00,440 --> 01:00:02,040
and the icebreaker Noosfera,
974
01:00:02,120 --> 01:00:05,240
Ukrainian scientists have joined
international research projects.
975
01:00:05,320 --> 01:00:08,040
The state gains access
to modern technologies
976
01:00:08,120 --> 01:00:09,760
as well as scientific partnerships.
977
01:00:40,840 --> 01:00:47,520
I have never been this close
to a whale before.
978
01:00:51,520 --> 01:00:54,080
What an experience!
979
01:00:54,760 --> 01:00:57,800
You don't even need to look
for whales in Antarctica,
980
01:00:57,880 --> 01:01:02,160
you go somewhere, and they just show up.
981
01:01:02,840 --> 01:01:04,720
That's why this region is so unique.
982
01:01:21,640 --> 01:01:25,440
Well then, now it’s official.
We’re in Antarctica.
983
01:01:41,640 --> 01:01:43,280
Antarctica is huge.
984
01:01:43,760 --> 01:01:46,480
This continent is
1.5 times larger than Europe.
985
01:01:48,840 --> 01:01:52,720
In winter, it doubles in size
due to the ice.
986
01:01:56,440 --> 01:02:01,000
That ice contains about 80%
of all the fresh water on the planet.
987
01:02:02,560 --> 01:02:04,080
There’s so much ice here.
988
01:02:04,160 --> 01:02:06,480
If this ice ever fully melted,
989
01:02:06,560 --> 01:02:09,800
the water level in the world's oceans
will rise by 60 meters.
990
01:02:14,960 --> 01:02:18,120
Antarctica is the least-explored
continent on Earth.
991
01:02:19,200 --> 01:02:24,800
Under a kilometer of ice lies
hidden lakes and Alpine-size mountains.
992
01:02:24,880 --> 01:02:27,000
No one has ever seen them.
993
01:02:32,200 --> 01:02:35,760
It is impossible not to fall in love
with these landscapes.
994
01:02:40,200 --> 01:02:42,480
Once you recover a bit
from all that beauty,
995
01:02:42,560 --> 01:02:46,960
a question comes to mind
that every Carpathian realtor would ask.
996
01:02:47,920 --> 01:02:48,920
Whose land is this?
997
01:02:49,000 --> 01:02:51,160
The short answer is simple. No one's.
998
01:02:51,240 --> 01:02:54,040
The long answer is,
it’s pretty complicated.
999
01:02:54,680 --> 01:02:57,120
The complication is that
as many as seven countries
1000
01:02:57,200 --> 01:02:58,920
lay claim to different parts
of Antarctica.
1001
01:02:59,000 --> 01:03:00,800
Argentina, Australia,
1002
01:03:00,880 --> 01:03:02,680
Chile, France, New Zealand,
1003
01:03:02,760 --> 01:03:04,240
Great Britain, and Norway.
1004
01:03:04,880 --> 01:03:06,720
Norway, for example, claims a sector
1005
01:03:06,800 --> 01:03:09,000
that is seven times larger
than Norway itself.
1006
01:03:09,600 --> 01:03:12,160
Countries wanted to prevent countries
from harming anyone,
1007
01:03:12,240 --> 01:03:14,320
so they signed the Antarctic Treaty.
1008
01:03:16,240 --> 01:03:17,720
I'll read it for you.
1009
01:03:17,800 --> 01:03:19,360
The treaty basically says that
1010
01:03:19,440 --> 01:03:21,760
Antarctica is a place
for scientific research.
1011
01:03:21,840 --> 01:03:24,080
Any military activity here is forbidden.
1012
01:03:25,920 --> 01:03:31,560
In 1998, a protocol on environmental
protection was added to the treaty.
1013
01:03:31,640 --> 01:03:36,080
It includes a clause, “Prohibition
of Mineral Resource Activities.”
1014
01:03:36,840 --> 01:03:38,400
Yes, you heard that right.
1015
01:03:38,480 --> 01:03:40,040
And you, Donald, heard that right too.
1016
01:03:40,640 --> 01:03:41,720
There are resources here.
1017
01:03:41,800 --> 01:03:43,720
Data from the 1950s suggests
1018
01:03:43,800 --> 01:03:46,520
there are deposits of oil,
gas, nickel, chromium,
1019
01:03:46,600 --> 01:03:48,680
and possibly uranium,
gold, and diamonds.
1020
01:03:49,200 --> 01:03:50,400
There’s no exact information,
1021
01:03:50,480 --> 01:03:53,280
because drilling is restricted
by international agreements.
1022
01:03:53,360 --> 01:03:54,360
You get the idea.
1023
01:03:54,440 --> 01:03:57,920
Imagine, you have a continent, Antarctica.
1024
01:03:58,000 --> 01:03:59,760
It belongs to no one.
1025
01:04:00,320 --> 01:04:03,600
It is twice as large as Australia.
1026
01:04:03,680 --> 01:04:07,440
No one has ever mined any resources here.
1027
01:04:07,520 --> 01:04:11,840
There may be more resources
than anyone could ever imagine
1028
01:04:11,920 --> 01:04:13,800
It sounds very good, doesn't it?
1029
01:04:14,320 --> 01:04:16,600
There are about 70 stations
in Antarctica right now,
1030
01:04:16,680 --> 01:04:17,840
and that number keeps growing.
1031
01:04:17,920 --> 01:04:19,600
Türkiye is building its own station,
1032
01:04:19,680 --> 01:04:22,000
Azerbaijan and Kazakhstan
have announced their plans too.
1033
01:04:22,080 --> 01:04:25,760
But Russia and China are
the most active in construction.
1034
01:04:25,840 --> 01:04:27,720
They have over ten stations combined.
1035
01:04:27,800 --> 01:04:29,480
Why is this activity needed?
1036
01:04:29,560 --> 01:04:35,000
The moratorium on resource extraction
is valid until 2048.
1037
01:04:35,080 --> 01:04:36,880
It may be reviewed later.
1038
01:04:36,960 --> 01:04:39,360
Considering everything
happening in the world,
1039
01:04:39,440 --> 01:04:45,200
I think we can predict
which direction that revision will take.
1040
01:04:45,960 --> 01:04:49,640
Only states with stations here
and active research programs
1041
01:04:49,720 --> 01:04:53,440
will gain access
to the continent’s resources.
1042
01:04:53,520 --> 01:04:55,200
As of early 2024,
1043
01:04:55,280 --> 01:04:58,040
56 countries are part
of the Antarctic Treaty.
1044
01:04:58,120 --> 01:05:02,160
Twenty-nine of them have voting rights,
including Ukraine.
1045
01:05:02,800 --> 01:05:04,040
Why does that matter?
1046
01:05:04,120 --> 01:05:08,240
Decisions about Antarctica
are made unanimously.
1047
01:05:08,320 --> 01:05:09,560
We have the right to veto.
1048
01:05:09,640 --> 01:05:10,840
Here's an example.
1049
01:05:10,920 --> 01:05:15,120
Ukraine wants to create a protected area
on the Argentine Islands.
1050
01:05:15,720 --> 01:05:17,240
We want to protect it from tourists.
1051
01:05:17,320 --> 01:05:19,640
This decision is blocked by two countries.
1052
01:05:19,720 --> 01:05:20,960
Guess these countries?
1053
01:05:21,040 --> 01:05:22,240
Russia and China.
1054
01:05:22,320 --> 01:05:24,760
Russia wants to involve Belarus.
1055
01:05:24,840 --> 01:05:26,920
It wants give it voting rights
in the Antarctic Club.
1056
01:05:27,480 --> 01:05:29,440
This decision is also blocked.
1057
01:05:30,000 --> 01:05:30,880
Guess by whom?
1058
01:05:32,040 --> 01:05:33,160
It is blocked by us.
1059
01:05:35,240 --> 01:05:39,360
The Antarctic Club is truly a place
of fierce diplomatic battles.
1060
01:05:40,880 --> 01:05:45,120
There’s another reason
for this activity on the icy continent.
1061
01:05:52,000 --> 01:05:55,600
If it weren't for the jacket,
one could easily say
1062
01:05:55,680 --> 01:05:57,880
that I'm somewhere in the Azores.
1063
01:05:57,960 --> 01:06:00,000
But this is Antarctica.
1064
01:06:00,080 --> 01:06:02,880
It’s greener than you’d expect.
1065
01:06:10,800 --> 01:06:13,040
It's covered in different colors.
1066
01:06:13,120 --> 01:06:16,080
It unfolds, spreads,
and starts to photosynthesize.
1067
01:06:16,160 --> 01:06:18,840
It's so bright green, so unique.
1068
01:06:22,360 --> 01:06:24,920
The greenery you see is algae.
1069
01:06:25,680 --> 01:06:29,640
They haven’t seen anything like this
for decades here.
1070
01:06:30,760 --> 01:06:34,720
Such rapid algae growth
was caused by heavy rain.
1071
01:06:34,800 --> 01:06:38,040
Rain that was triggered by global warming.
1072
01:06:45,040 --> 01:06:48,440
Antarctica warms up three times faster
than the rest of the planet.
1073
01:06:50,000 --> 01:06:53,440
Some forecasts suggest
the continent may lose lots of ice
1074
01:06:53,520 --> 01:06:54,960
by the middle of the century.
1075
01:06:58,480 --> 01:06:59,720
In coastal regions,
1076
01:06:59,800 --> 01:07:02,880
melting ice is already
uncovering rocks and shores.
1077
01:07:06,520 --> 01:07:11,200
Ecologically, this means rising sea levels
1078
01:07:11,280 --> 01:07:15,240
ecosystem disruption,
and shifting ocean currents.
1079
01:07:16,120 --> 01:07:21,400
Economically, this means
future mining will be much cheaper.
1080
01:07:29,560 --> 01:07:31,360
But for now, these are just forecasts.
1081
01:07:31,440 --> 01:07:33,640
Antarctic glaciers are still in place.
1082
01:07:34,160 --> 01:07:37,720
We even approached one of them.
1083
01:07:38,880 --> 01:07:42,440
They collapse sometimes
1084
01:07:42,520 --> 01:07:46,720
That can be dangerous
for small boats like these.
1085
01:07:46,800 --> 01:07:48,960
If the wave is really big,
1086
01:07:49,040 --> 01:07:51,160
it can even flip the boat over.
1087
01:07:51,240 --> 01:07:53,960
The real danger is the blue ice.
1088
01:07:54,040 --> 01:07:56,680
I mean that one, right there.
1089
01:08:08,640 --> 01:08:10,800
This isn’t color grading.
1090
01:08:10,880 --> 01:08:15,480
Antarctic ice really does look
stunningly blue in real life.
1091
01:08:18,480 --> 01:08:24,400
It becomes especially vivid
when the sun briefly comes out.
1092
01:08:33,920 --> 01:08:36,560
The effect comes from
the very structure of Antarctic ice.
1093
01:08:36,640 --> 01:08:38,280
It is extremely old.
1094
01:08:38,840 --> 01:08:42,360
It's formed over hundreds of years
by layers of snow piling up.
1095
01:08:44,440 --> 01:08:46,200
The snow compresses over time,
1096
01:08:46,280 --> 01:08:50,560
air bubbles inside get squeezed,
then gradually disappear.
1097
01:08:51,480 --> 01:08:55,720
As a result, a structure forms
that absorbs nearly all light
1098
01:08:55,800 --> 01:08:57,240
except for the blue waves.
1099
01:08:57,720 --> 01:09:00,760
These waves aren’t absorbed,
but reflected.
1100
01:09:00,840 --> 01:09:05,760
Thus making Antarctic ice
that magical, mesmerizing blue.
1101
01:09:22,000 --> 01:09:25,800
Nature is a first-class master
at creating spectacular sights.
1102
01:09:26,880 --> 01:09:30,400
Icebergs are probably one of
its most beautiful creatures.
1103
01:09:31,920 --> 01:09:35,400
They appear in all shapes and forms here.
1104
01:09:35,480 --> 01:09:37,520
If you turn on your imagination,
1105
01:09:37,600 --> 01:09:41,000
you can see real sculptures
in these blocks of ice.
1106
01:09:41,960 --> 01:09:44,640
I won’t say
what each iceberg reminds me of.
1107
01:09:45,120 --> 01:09:48,640
Try to think what they remind you of.
1108
01:10:29,760 --> 01:10:31,760
This arch became one of the symbols
1109
01:10:31,840 --> 01:10:33,640
of my journey to Antarctica.
1110
01:10:34,160 --> 01:10:38,160
It drifted near the station
for the whole week we were here.
1111
01:10:59,320 --> 01:11:03,960
If you treat icebergs as art,
then it’s very fleeting.
1112
01:11:04,520 --> 01:11:08,440
Neither the arch nor any of the icebergs
you’ve seen exist anymore.
1113
01:11:09,680 --> 01:11:13,800
They’ve either melted, disappeared,
or completely changed their shape.
1114
01:11:16,000 --> 01:11:18,000
Only these images remain.
1115
01:11:41,040 --> 01:11:44,600
Biologist Ivan suddenly started
frantically hitting the water
1116
01:11:44,680 --> 01:11:46,040
with his paddle on our way back.
1117
01:11:46,880 --> 01:11:49,040
I did not understand it at all,
1118
01:11:49,520 --> 01:11:52,240
but then I saw the head of a leopard seal.
1119
01:11:52,320 --> 01:11:55,320
It's one of the most
dangerous predators in Antarctica.
1120
01:12:03,280 --> 01:12:05,520
The day before,
he had punctured a boat’s tube.
1121
01:12:05,600 --> 01:12:06,960
It was made of very strong rubber.
1122
01:12:07,040 --> 01:12:09,720
Ivan was just trying to scare him away.
1123
01:12:09,800 --> 01:12:13,400
It didn’t really help much.
1124
01:12:16,840 --> 01:12:17,800
It is so big.
1125
01:12:18,480 --> 01:12:22,720
I repeatedly saw this leopard seal
right near the station’s pier.
1126
01:12:22,800 --> 01:12:26,600
He swam up to the boats
every time we were here
1127
01:12:26,680 --> 01:12:28,080
and inspected the passengers.
1128
01:12:29,840 --> 01:12:30,960
Well, you get it.
1129
01:12:31,040 --> 01:12:34,280
This leopard seal is the boss here.
1130
01:12:42,680 --> 01:12:45,240
We arrived at the station
during the shift change.
1131
01:12:45,320 --> 01:12:47,640
It's quite a stressful time here.
1132
01:12:48,280 --> 01:12:51,240
Everything must be unloaded within a week,
1133
01:12:51,320 --> 01:12:53,080
including 140 tons of diesel.
1134
01:12:53,160 --> 01:12:54,480
We weren't lucky with the weather.
1135
01:12:54,560 --> 01:12:58,360
We even doubted the polar team
would stay on schedule.
1136
01:12:59,720 --> 01:13:01,560
All the supplies have to be sorted.
1137
01:13:01,640 --> 01:13:05,480
Duties have to be handed over
to the new crew.
1138
01:13:07,080 --> 01:13:10,280
There are about 30 people
living here now instead of 13.
1139
01:13:10,920 --> 01:13:12,840
People sleep anywhere they can find space.
1140
01:13:14,240 --> 01:13:17,240
I was kindly given a place in the attic.
1141
01:13:17,320 --> 01:13:19,320
People also live up there
during shift change.
1142
01:13:19,400 --> 01:13:21,880
I had my own separate corner.
1143
01:13:21,960 --> 01:13:23,960
It was storage for the ski equipment.
1144
01:13:24,040 --> 01:13:26,640
I found everything there,
including a sleeping bag.
1145
01:13:27,320 --> 01:13:29,640
I stayed at Vernadsky
for almost three days.
1146
01:13:29,720 --> 01:13:31,640
Here is my feedback.
1147
01:13:32,760 --> 01:13:33,920
What can I say?
1148
01:13:35,040 --> 01:13:36,880
The station quickly feels like home.
1149
01:13:36,960 --> 01:13:38,800
But there’s one crucial detail.
1150
01:13:38,880 --> 01:13:42,320
There is absolutely
no personal space here.
1151
01:13:42,840 --> 01:13:48,320
I’m speaking almost
in a whisper in my tiny room,
1152
01:13:48,400 --> 01:13:52,680
It's because people are sleeping
just behind this thin wall.
1153
01:13:52,760 --> 01:13:54,560
It’s really tough.
1154
01:13:54,640 --> 01:13:57,200
There aren’t many places
to find privacy here.
1155
01:13:57,280 --> 01:13:58,600
You can lock yourself in a lab,
1156
01:13:58,680 --> 01:14:01,680
you can go to see the penguins,
or visit the chapel.
1157
01:14:02,160 --> 01:14:04,480
By the way, the last one
is actually a very good option.
1158
01:14:04,560 --> 01:14:06,080
You are not only alone there.
1159
01:14:06,160 --> 01:14:08,080
The Wi-Fi signal is also
pretty strong there.
1160
01:14:08,600 --> 01:14:10,160
But jokes aside, it's true.
1161
01:14:10,240 --> 01:14:12,360
It's extremely
psychologically difficult to spend
1162
01:14:12,440 --> 01:14:15,760
a whole year in such voluntary seclusion.
1163
01:14:15,840 --> 01:14:17,840
Not everyone can handle it.
1164
01:14:22,120 --> 01:14:25,720
Long isolation is one of
the toughest parts of polar work.
1165
01:14:26,360 --> 01:14:29,480
Imagine spending a whole year
on an island you can’t leave.
1166
01:14:30,132 --> 01:14:32,440
You only get three hours
of daylight in winter.
1167
01:14:33,240 --> 01:14:34,920
It's the same view every day.
1168
01:14:35,520 --> 01:14:37,040
The weather is constantly bad.
1169
01:14:37,640 --> 01:14:40,040
It's an enclosed space, the same faces.
1170
01:14:40,120 --> 01:14:42,800
You still have to take shifts,
work outside.
1171
01:14:42,880 --> 01:14:45,280
Although it’s the South,
it’s definitely not Miami.
1172
01:14:45,880 --> 01:14:48,120
If you’re thinking like,
well, at least there are penguins,
1173
01:14:48,200 --> 01:14:50,000
then I’ve got bad news for you.
1174
01:14:50,080 --> 01:14:51,960
Penguins aren’t here in winter.
1175
01:14:52,040 --> 01:14:55,360
They migrate to warmer places
with access to open water.
1176
01:14:55,440 --> 01:15:00,800
Let’s discuss traditions that help polars
manage their mental health.
1177
01:15:00,880 --> 01:15:04,000
Most of the traditions came
from the British, like this pool table.
1178
01:15:04,720 --> 01:15:06,960
The British started Friday cleaning.
1179
01:15:07,040 --> 01:15:08,440
Then they drank beer.
1180
01:15:08,520 --> 01:15:10,560
The Ukrainians kept Friday cleaning,
1181
01:15:10,640 --> 01:15:12,720
but they moved the dinner to Saturday.
1182
01:15:12,800 --> 01:15:14,880
They allow a bit of wine on Saturdays.
1183
01:15:14,960 --> 01:15:17,720
The British wore suits
for festive dinners.
1184
01:15:17,800 --> 01:15:20,560
The Ukrainians changed it to vyshyvanky.
1185
01:15:21,520 --> 01:15:25,600
Every expedition invents
its own tradition.
1186
01:15:26,760 --> 01:15:28,640
Here’s what the 29th expedition did.
1187
01:15:28,720 --> 01:15:30,800
Our expedition had a special tradition.
1188
01:15:31,600 --> 01:15:37,520
Every Saturday, no matter the weather
or the supplies left in the freezer,
1189
01:15:38,040 --> 01:15:38,960
we ate borscht.
1190
01:15:39,040 --> 01:15:40,120
Borscht with meat.
1191
01:15:40,200 --> 01:15:43,600
Even when we had strict limits
on meat supplies.
1192
01:15:44,840 --> 01:15:50,160
There was always
a little hidden meat reserve.
1193
01:15:50,240 --> 01:15:54,640
It was divided into 52 portions,
52 Saturdays.
1194
01:15:54,720 --> 01:15:56,120
Borscht always had to be with meat.
1195
01:15:56,200 --> 01:15:58,040
We have borscht left.
1196
01:15:58,120 --> 01:15:59,160
Today is Monday.
1197
01:15:59,680 --> 01:16:02,080
We have borscht, wait.
1198
01:16:02,160 --> 01:16:03,680
Give me a second.
1199
01:16:03,760 --> 01:16:05,360
Here it is, on delivery.
1200
01:16:06,880 --> 01:16:08,720
This borscht has been steeping
for two days.
1201
01:16:11,120 --> 01:16:15,640
Borscht is the only soup
you can’t leave unfinished.
1202
01:16:15,720 --> 01:16:19,960
I thought maybe the tradition
wouldn't be kept up, or was pointless.
1203
01:16:20,600 --> 01:16:22,480
Then I heard the phrase,
1204
01:16:22,560 --> 01:16:25,720
“I’m waiting for Saturday
to enjoy borscht with pampushky."
1205
01:16:26,280 --> 01:16:27,400
How many were there in total?
1206
01:16:27,960 --> 01:16:29,400
Around seven or eight thousand.
1207
01:16:29,880 --> 01:16:30,840
- Pampushky?
- Yes.
1208
01:16:31,360 --> 01:16:33,720
- Seven thousand pampushky in a year...
- With garlic.
1209
01:16:33,800 --> 01:16:36,080
We cooked a lot of borscht.
1210
01:16:36,160 --> 01:16:40,200
We made 25 liters
of borscht for 40 weeks.
1211
01:16:40,280 --> 01:16:43,280
Then we cooked
35 liters each for 12 weeks.
1212
01:16:43,360 --> 01:16:45,040
That’s about 1.5 tons of borscht in total.
1213
01:16:46,120 --> 01:16:48,480
The borscht was served with sour cream
that Nazar made himself.
1214
01:16:48,560 --> 01:16:50,800
He used a fermented dairy starter.
1215
01:16:50,880 --> 01:16:52,120
This is how it was.
1216
01:16:54,760 --> 01:16:56,800
Since we’re talking about leisure,
1217
01:16:56,880 --> 01:17:00,680
there is the world’s
southern-most bar at this station.
1218
01:17:00,760 --> 01:17:02,360
It's named after Michael Faraday.
1219
01:17:02,440 --> 01:17:05,200
Polar explorers can relax a bit here.
1220
01:17:06,040 --> 01:17:08,400
If you forget we’re in Antarctica,
1221
01:17:08,480 --> 01:17:10,840
the bar looks quite sophisticated.
1222
01:17:11,320 --> 01:17:14,600
The British planned to build
a conference hall here with a library.
1223
01:17:14,680 --> 01:17:19,800
But the carpenter knew how
to build pubs, not libraries.
1224
01:17:19,880 --> 01:17:22,000
He didn't build what was needed,
but what he could.
1225
01:17:23,000 --> 01:17:26,440
He was even fired for misuse of resources.
1226
01:17:26,520 --> 01:17:30,800
But I have to admit, the bar is amazing.
1227
01:17:31,440 --> 01:17:37,640
There’s Ukrainian liquor,
rare British vinyl records
1228
01:17:38,600 --> 01:17:42,400
and a big collection
of National Geographic magazines.
1229
01:17:46,400 --> 01:17:49,440
Wasn’t that interesting?
1230
01:17:50,040 --> 01:17:51,640
Now I better show you penguins.
1231
01:17:59,600 --> 01:18:04,640
PENGUIN PEEK
1232
01:18:05,680 --> 01:18:08,280
I had a few free hours on the last day,
1233
01:18:08,360 --> 01:18:11,560
so I decided to spend them
with penguins near Vernadsky.
1234
01:18:14,000 --> 01:18:17,240
I adore watching the family dramas
of subantarctic penguins.
1235
01:18:18,440 --> 01:18:20,600
It's almost like
scrolling TikTok, I swear.
1236
01:18:21,080 --> 01:18:23,480
It is very addictive and very funny.
1237
01:18:25,440 --> 01:18:27,880
The relationship between parents
and their children is amazing.
1238
01:18:28,520 --> 01:18:30,440
The penguin on the right is a chick.
1239
01:18:30,520 --> 01:18:34,120
It pecks at its mother’s beak
to show that it’s hungry.
1240
01:18:35,000 --> 01:18:39,640
That’s a tactile stimulus
that triggers the regurgitation reflex.
1241
01:18:40,640 --> 01:18:44,480
That’s how parents feed chicks
with half-digested food.
1242
01:18:45,520 --> 01:18:48,320
Sometimes there are too many
waiting in line to be fed,
1243
01:18:48,400 --> 01:18:51,480
and then the parent
makes the only right choice,
1244
01:18:51,560 --> 01:18:53,360
just to run away.
1245
01:18:53,880 --> 01:18:59,040
When parents run from their chicks,
like “You’re grown-ups, you handle it,”
1246
01:18:59,120 --> 01:19:00,840
it looks very funny.
1247
01:19:00,920 --> 01:19:01,960
Pure escapism.
1248
01:19:11,160 --> 01:19:13,200
I'm done with penguins.
1249
01:19:16,640 --> 01:19:19,560
This is the last day at the station.
1250
01:19:19,640 --> 01:19:21,680
The sun finally came out.
1251
01:19:29,480 --> 01:19:31,640
This is the end of the shift change.
1252
01:19:32,240 --> 01:19:35,640
Two base commanders sign
the handover papers.
1253
01:19:35,720 --> 01:19:38,640
The commander of the 30th expedition,
taking over the duty,
1254
01:19:38,720 --> 01:19:42,160
receives the keys to a chest
with gifts for the polars.
1255
01:19:45,040 --> 01:19:45,920
Congratulations!
1256
01:19:46,000 --> 01:19:48,280
It usually contains alcohol and sweets.
1257
01:19:48,360 --> 01:19:50,960
I also took part in filling it up.
1258
01:19:51,040 --> 01:19:53,560
I brought Shakhtar cake from Kyiv.
1259
01:19:53,640 --> 01:19:56,320
That’s a traditional cake
from Luhansk, my hometown.
1260
01:19:56,400 --> 01:20:00,680
This cake was designed
by the confectioners to resemble coal.
1261
01:20:01,280 --> 01:20:02,480
This chest is hidden.
1262
01:20:02,560 --> 01:20:04,480
It is usually opened
in the middle of winter.
1263
01:20:08,240 --> 01:20:10,800
Finally, a new flag is raised
over the station.
1264
01:20:10,880 --> 01:20:14,720
It was brought from Ukraine
by the 30th Antarctic Expedition.
1265
01:20:16,040 --> 01:20:19,280
They officially take over
the duty from this moment.
1266
01:20:26,480 --> 01:20:30,480
The polar explorers get ready
to load onto the boats,
1267
01:20:30,560 --> 01:20:32,680
They finally begin the long journey home.
1268
01:20:41,520 --> 01:20:43,600
Everyone is getting ready,
we are departing.
1269
01:20:43,680 --> 01:20:49,000
Just look at what nature
has given us before we leave.
1270
01:21:03,960 --> 01:21:06,000
This is the moment
when I am incredibly happy.
1271
01:21:06,480 --> 01:21:07,320
I swear...
1272
01:21:24,560 --> 01:21:28,200
After a vibrant seven days,
we leave the station.
1273
01:21:28,280 --> 01:21:29,720
We also leave these 13 people.
1274
01:21:29,800 --> 01:21:34,320
They will spend the next year
in isolation, on the edge of the world.
1275
01:21:34,400 --> 01:21:37,080
They will support the Ukrainian mission
in Antarctica.
1276
01:21:39,000 --> 01:21:42,480
I think this mission is not only
about scientific discovery.
1277
01:21:42,560 --> 01:21:46,720
Not only about raising a new generation
of Ukrainian scientists.
1278
01:21:47,280 --> 01:21:49,840
It’s not only about politics
and diplomacy,
1279
01:21:49,920 --> 01:21:52,800
not only about bioresources and minerals.
1280
01:21:53,880 --> 01:21:56,000
It’s also about something to be proud of.
1281
01:21:56,720 --> 01:21:58,480
Ukraine has been in Antarctica
for 30 years,
1282
01:21:58,560 --> 01:22:02,200
despite the war, economic crises,
and countless other obstacles.
1283
01:22:03,080 --> 01:22:05,360
Ukraine is not sending people
into space right now but,
1284
01:22:05,440 --> 01:22:07,400
as you just saw,
1285
01:22:07,480 --> 01:22:11,880
making it possible for 13 people
to live for a year in a polar desert.
1286
01:22:11,960 --> 01:22:15,240
Keeping the station...
it is something like a space program.
1287
01:22:15,720 --> 01:22:17,520
That’s another reason to be proud.
1288
01:22:30,120 --> 01:22:32,080
We spent just a week in Antarctica.
1289
01:22:32,160 --> 01:22:33,200
It’s not that much time.
1290
01:22:33,280 --> 01:22:35,160
But it's enough to understand
1291
01:22:35,240 --> 01:22:37,760
that this is one of the wildest,
most inaccessible,
1292
01:22:37,840 --> 01:22:40,680
and most beautiful places I’ve ever been.
1293
01:22:41,480 --> 01:22:45,480
It's an incredible privilege
to be here and film this moment.
1294
01:22:46,440 --> 01:22:47,640
I fully realize this.
1295
01:22:47,720 --> 01:22:50,400
I am thankful to the Armed Forces
and Ukrainian polar explorers.